Okay Skye, I will add my $.02: From my experience, those bolts/nuts may have
been associated with each other for the past twenty-or-so years and there isn't
much room to work. In my case, the nuts were nyloc stop nuts and were very
difficult to break loose.
You probably want to jack up the side quite high so as to give yourself maximum
leverage on the wrenches. As long as you don't set the brake, you can easily
rotate the driveshaft to position the bolts for best leverage. I found that
two sturdy rubber bungee cords worked very well. You probably want to tape
something 'soft' over the flange of the driveshaft because it's going to swing
around under the tunnel.
There.
Bud Krueger
52TD
77MGB (been there, done that)
ccrobins wrote:
> Here ya go Skye:
>
> To disconnect the driveshaft on a manual trans MGB for towing:
>
> Don't bother, it's not necessary.
>
> If you have an automatic transmission or just don't want to believe
> the above:
>
> * Jack up one side of the car so that the rear wheel is off the ground.
>
> * Put a jackstand, etc., beside the jack so the car can't fall on you
> while you're under there.
>
> * Put blocks in front of and behind the wheels on the other side so
> the car can't roll. Reason as in step immediately above.
>
> * Crawl under the car with a fistfull of wrenches (7/16" or 1/2", I
> don't remember) A couple of box ends will usually do it but ya never
> know what you my find under your B.
>
> * Scribe a line on the drive shaft flange and adjacent pinion flange so
> that they may be reconnected in the same relative position. Oops!
> Forgot the scriber. Crawl out and get it.
>
> * Remove the four bolts and nuts holding the drive shaft to the pinion
> flange. (How to hold the drive shaft in one position or to allow it to
> rotate so as to get at the bolts is left to the ingenuity of the
> reader. Hint: it will turn if the brake is off and the transmission is
> in neutral.) This may go quickly or not, depending on how rusty, etc.,
> the bolts are. Hmmm. should have taken some penetrating oil under
> there, along with the wrenches.
>
> * Pull, pry, bash (or in some other way cause to move) the driveshaft
> slightly forward so as to disconnect it from the pinion flange. Might
> have been a good idea to take a hammer and long screwdriver under there
> too.
>
> * Tie the driveshaft up out of the way to some convenient point, using
> bailing wire, rope, your belt. your SO's nylons etc., so it won't rattle
> around.
>
> * Crawl out from under car and have a cold one. Crawl back under car
> and retrieve your tools.
>
> * Set car back down on the ground and put everything away.
>
> * Repeat the first three steps above so as to retrieve the bolts and
> nuts you left under the car.
>
> Alternatively, hire one of the guys on the MG list who claims he can
> do this job in five minutes. Bet him that he can't do it that fast so
> as to get it done for free. (Sorry guys, I couldn't resist!)
>
> Tee Hee,
>
> Charley Robinson
> '69 B
>
>
>
>
> Skye Poier wrote:
> >
> > Word on the street is that Bud Krueger said:
> > > But Larry, I never said a word about the driveshaft. (Though you may
> > > recall that I did give in and uncouple mine.)
> >
> > Someone want to write a quick article on how to disconnect the driveshaft
> > and secure it for the layperson? I'll put it up on my site.
> >
> > Skye
> > Hasn't towed his car anywhere
> >
> > --
> > 1966 MGB GHN3L-70307 __,__\__ Finger for
> > The MGB Experience http://www.mgb.bc.ca/ (_o____o_) PGP key
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