Dear Rick,
That actually sounds like the best thing I've heard so far. It also can be
done from above the car, rather than down below, IIRC.
"Never ascribe to Malice that which can be explained by Ignorance."
John J. Peloquin, Assistant Research Entomologist
Entomology, University of California, Riverside, CA 92521
On Mon, 12 Oct 1998, Rick Morrison wrote:
> John,
> I've found the easiest way is to remove the hard line from the top of
> the fitting (there is enough room to use a 7/16 flare nut wrench or open
> end wrench).
> Then use a deep socket to remove the nut from the fitting and the entire
> fitting can be removed from the bracket where you can then get to the
> slave cylinder hose.
> Admitedly, it sounds like a lot of work to remove one hose connection,
> but in the long run it actually takes less time - not to mention busted
> knuckles, abuse of the Queen's English, and the increased consumption of
> adult beverages.
>
> Rick Morrison
> " Our drinking team has a racing problem........"
> 72 MGBGT
> 74 Midget
>
> On Mon, 12 Oct 1998 14:20:36 -0700 (PDT) john peloquin
> <peloquin@galaxy.ucr.edu> writes:
> >Dear netters:
> >
> >This weekend, I replaced my Brake MC, and while I was at it, I thought
> >I
> >would replace the clutch hose between the metal line from the clutch
> >MC to
> >the slave cylinder. Well, wouldn't you know that you couldn't fit a
> >wrench
> >(at least none of the Craftsman wrenches) I have into the space
> >available
> >to loosen the nut to replace the hose. The fitting to the metal line
> >line
> >is much like that to the flex lines for the brakes, except bigger and
> >unapproachable due to "steric hindrance" from the starter solenoid!
> >
> >Anyone out there with a suggestions- besides pulling the starter?
> >
> >Is this a dreaded "Special Service Tool" situation?
> >
> >Thanks much!
> >
> >"Never ascribe to Malice that which can be explained by Ignorance."
> >John J. Peloquin, Assistant Research Entomologist
> >Entomology, University of California, Riverside, CA 92521
> >
> >
>
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