-----Original Message-----
From: Jon Årikstad <jon@nextel.no>
>BLUE SMOKE ( + some 'rattling' from down there)
>So here is my question.
>A rebore +++ work, will cost around 10K
>A reconditioned full engine will cost, with
>Some say that the recon'd engines aren't as good
>tempting, but..
>Any experience out there ??
If you get a decent warranty and the company is reputable, I wouldn't be
afraid of a reconditioned motor. You're trading time for dollars. If you
have the time you can do it yourself, if you spend quite a bit of money your
car will be back on the road faster.
You might do a compression and leakdown test to find where your problems
are. If the head is new and in good shape then a 'short' block would be
sufficient (block, bearings, crank, rods, and rings).
>Brakes:
>I am used to power brakes. Haven't had
>unassisted brakes since
>time. Any ideas out there ??
MG brakes, in good repair, stop fine. Booster isn't going to make a lot of
difference.
>Also:
>Washed my car, lots of water inside the coupe.
Underneath the car, in the trans tunnel to the right of the flywheel
housing, there should be a black, rubber tube hanging down from the heater
box. This is the drain but it can get clogged with dirt and junk. Clean that
out.
>Where on the distributor do I connect the wire
>from the
>tachometer ??
It is usally hooked up to the spare spade coming off the negative side of
the coil.
>What should the W/R/D/C ratio be on an MG ??
>
>W= Wash/polishing
>R= Repair/maint.
>D= Driving
>C= Crying
10/30/60/60 -- YMMV
Bob Allen, Kansas City USA
"It's funny how cheap everything sounds when you don't understand the
currency."
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