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Re: patching rust holes? (LONG)

To: Nory <Nory@webtv.net>
Subject: Re: patching rust holes? (LONG)
From: Jim Boyd <ISC@dcsi.net>
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 09:21:51 -0800
Hey Nory (and Listers:)

When repairing a damaged piece of sheet metal (say a MGB dogleg as an
example), several steps have to be taken to ensure a good repair.  Kinda
like a cancer surgeon, all the rust/cancer has to be removed and then a
little some, past the margins of the visible diesase.  So if you had a
1/2" rust hole, I would start by removing another 1/2" or so around the
problem area.  Don't get carried away and tear out everything!

So now you are ready to install the new repair panel.  There are several
ways to go about this.  One method that is typically used is to cut out
a repair piece that is the exact size of the spot to be repaired.  You
end up performing a "butt weld".  You are filling in the gap between the
two edges (existing panel and repair section).  Although the weld (when
used correctly) will penetrate into both sections, there will still be
some additional thickness added to the surface of the metals.  A portion
of this has to be ground off to achieve the correct contour for the
panel.  Some strength will also be lost, due to the removal of this
weld.  Panel warping is also a consideration, too, if excessive heat is
applied.

Now, same scenario, repair panel size is determined, replacement panel
is readied.  But this time, the repair panel will be a bit larger than
the repair opening.  Using the flanging pliers, you travel around the
edges of both panels, crimping along the way.  You end up with an offset
area to weld in your replacement panel without having to grind off a lot
of the weld to achieve the correct surface contour.  

Eventually, this method will also save you time and money from other
materials, like grinding wheels, etc.  Bottom line, though, is that the
repair is much stronger, has less chance of warping during the repair
and is a permanent fix!

the special tempory holders that Eastwood sells in their kit arent
really required.  You could easily just use some aluminum pop rivets as
a temporary hold and the just drill them out when you need to.  Again,
the special panel holders just are time savers, which may not be an
issue for the home repair guy.  To me (a confussed toolm addict!!), I
think they're neat!

Hope this helps!

Cheers,
Jim Boyd
International Sportscar Components
Paradise, CA  USA
Nory wrote:
> 
> I saw that new system in Eastwood's catalog too.  Pretty interesting,
> but is it worth the money?  I mean, can't you rivet your patches on
> without spending $100 or so on this kit?

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