Trevor Boicey wrote:
>
> Well, some of you may remember I posted about having
> an MGB oil filter that didn't seem to mesh flat with the
> oil filter housing.
>
> Well, I half-attempted to fix it a couple of weeks ago,
> and it seemed oiltight, so I put it out
> of my mind while I worked on other things like the fuel
> pump and the driveshaft.
>
> Anyways, today I was trying to start it for the first
> time, and while musing over the distributor I dropped
> a part. When I reached down to pick it up, I realized
> that half my oil was on the pavement. I guess the car
> "almost starting" had gotten oil pressure up higher than
> my earlier tests and that did me in. Oh well, at least
> it didn't start it might have emptied itself in a
> REAL hurry.
>
> Anyways, the car is a 70, but the engine is a 74-ish with
> the vertical spin on filter on the little stand
> that bolts to the engine block. It appears I'll need to
> remove the bracket and straighten it or replace it.
>
> Any tips on removing the oil filter bracket without
> pulling the engine? I confess I haven't looked up from
> underneath because of the oil lake, but I am not sure
> if the bolts are accessible or likely to be torqued
> off with the access I can get.
>
> Any tips? Anyone have a spare bracket?
>
> (Thanks to all the emailed about door hinges, I
> will get to that as soon as I solve this little
> trouble)
>
> --
> Trevor Boicey
> Ottawa, Canada
> tboicey@brit.ca
> http://www.brit.ca/~tboicey/
The bracket is removable from below if you use a long extention with a
swivel adapter. Once removed, make sure that the old o-ring is removed
from the grove. Sometimes you'll find two because a new one was
replaced without removing the old one. Re-installation is a two person
job. You'll need someone from above to hold the bracket in place while
you thread in the bolt from below. I did mine last year and found only
one o-ring but is was distorted and that was the source of my oil leak.
Eric Zambori
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