Hi Scott:
I would think that instructors in American Sign Language will be pretty
much in demand over the next few years as the new generation of the
self-induced deaf makes its way from the loud car to a permanently silenced
world. I wonder if US social services will be able to cope with the
demand. Of course, we could look on the bright side; many of them will not
survive the roads because they can't hear the train, emergency vehicle or
semi which is about to turn them into a wet spot on a woofer. Imagine not
being able to hear the sound of an MG as it hits 3500 rpm flat out.
John
>> At 08:01 PM 1/8/98 -0500, Jurgen wrote:
>> >At 07:40 PM 1/8/98 EST, Richard D. Arnold wrote:
>> >
>> >>Finally, I would recommend running a new 10-12 guage power line from the
>> >>power side of the fuse block (power at ignition only) and fuse the unit
>> >>separately, perhaps in the glove box or other accessible location.
>> >
>> >Sounds good to me, except you don't need this 10-12 guage wire. A radio
>> will only
>> >pull maybe 3 amps max. Just tap your cigarette lighter or other hot wire.
>> >
>>
>> I have no idea how old you guys are but this may be a generational thing.
>> My car audio draws 3-4 amps. My daughters boy friends car audio draws 20
>> -25 amps. For him #12 AWG would be a good idea. `Course, I'd never point
>> that out to HIM, the little puke.........
>>
>> Please excuse the OF syndrom.
>>
>> Ross MacPherson
>> 1947 MG-TC 3528
>> 1966 MGB-GT
>>
>
>Ross,
> It may be a generational thing, since you "old farts" simply didn't
>grow up with high-end car audio systems. My brother is 15 years
>older than I am. (he's 42), and he tells me that even as late as the
>early seventies, a 20-watt amp and a pair of Cricket 5 1/4" speakers
>was considered pretty esoteric. My last car had about 600 watts, and
>I got real familiar with 10 and 12 gauge wire. That's what I ran to
>each individual amp. The MAIN power lead from the battery to the
>distribution block was 4 gauge, and was easily the biggest wire in
>the car! This wasn't overkill either, like the systems you see with
>0000 gauge python-sized wire from the battery. I actually NEEDED
>four gauge. Total system draw was about 70-80 amps peak.
>
> We're growing up now with in-dash CDs, trunk-mounted changers,
>minidisc, amplifiers, six-speaker stereos, signal processors, and
>subwoofers all being available as factory options. It only makes
>sense that the aftermarket options will be even bigger and wilder.
> Oh, and to add to the original post, DO NOT tap off of the fuse box
>for any of the power connections if you're ever planning to add an
>amp later. If you're going to have multiple power lines and ground
>lines in you system, run them all directly to the battery or to the
>chassis. if you're just talking about a "deck-and-four" upgrade, the
>fuse box is probably fine.
>Scott
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