> At 08:01 PM 1/8/98 -0500, Jurgen wrote:
> >At 07:40 PM 1/8/98 EST, Richard D. Arnold wrote:
> >
> >>Finally, I would recommend running a new 10-12 guage power line from the
> >>power side of the fuse block (power at ignition only) and fuse the unit
> >>separately, perhaps in the glove box or other accessible location.
> >
> >Sounds good to me, except you don't need this 10-12 guage wire. A radio
> will only
> >pull maybe 3 amps max. Just tap your cigarette lighter or other hot wire.
> >
>
> I have no idea how old you guys are but this may be a generational thing.
> My car audio draws 3-4 amps. My daughters boy friends car audio draws 20
> -25 amps. For him #12 AWG would be a good idea. `Course, I'd never point
> that out to HIM, the little puke.........
>
> Please excuse the OF syndrom.
>
> Ross MacPherson
> 1947 MG-TC 3528
> 1966 MGB-GT
>
Ross,
It may be a generational thing, since you "old farts" simply didn't
grow up with high-end car audio systems. My brother is 15 years
older than I am. (he's 42), and he tells me that even as late as the
early seventies, a 20-watt amp and a pair of Cricket 5 1/4" speakers
was considered pretty esoteric. My last car had about 600 watts, and
I got real familiar with 10 and 12 gauge wire. That's what I ran to
each individual amp. The MAIN power lead from the battery to the
distribution block was 4 gauge, and was easily the biggest wire in
the car! This wasn't overkill either, like the systems you see with
0000 gauge python-sized wire from the battery. I actually NEEDED
four gauge. Total system draw was about 70-80 amps peak.
We're growing up now with in-dash CDs, trunk-mounted changers,
minidisc, amplifiers, six-speaker stereos, signal processors, and
subwoofers all being available as factory options. It only makes
sense that the aftermarket options will be even bigger and wilder.
Oh, and to add to the original post, DO NOT tap off of the fuse box
for any of the power connections if you're ever planning to add an
amp later. If you're going to have multiple power lines and ground
lines in you system, run them all directly to the battery or to the
chassis. if you're just talking about a "deck-and-four" upgrade, the
fuse box is probably fine.
Scott
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