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Re: Considering buying a MGB.

To: richard.arnold@juno.com
Subject: Re: Considering buying a MGB.
From: miker15@juno.com
Date: Mon, 22 Dec 1997 16:56:05 EST
Rich - doubtless you got a huge response which i havnt seen yet (one of
the drawbacks 
to answering mail as you read it only to find you are the 104th person to
say the same thing)
So i didnt sent this to the list

On Sat, 20 Dec 1997 23:04:10 EST richard.arnold@juno.com (Richard D.
Arnold) writes:
(snips here and there)

>I am considering buying a '74 MGB -- other than years of American-made 
>automotive experience, my experience with LBCs is limited to my '79 
>Midget and an aborted '67 Spitfire.
>
>If I buy this, it would be for a daily driver.  I have offered $400, 
>which I think will be accepted.  Before I close the deal, does anyone 
>have any advice, cautions, or suggestions on what else I should check? 
> My observations follow:

>From the description that follows, $400 is a damn good price - you
dont usually get more than a parts car for that! - Beware though, if this
is
to be your ONLY means of transport, there WILL be days you cant go out.
The car seems fair but you can be assured that there will be problems
to iron out - one of the reasons i have three of them is so I can  be 
reasonably assured at least one os on the road!!

>BODY:  Poorly repainted, and has rust in each of the lower rockers in 
>front of the rear wheels, and assorted light rust elsewhere.  No bondo 
>that I could locate.  Needs a new right door skin, and left front wing 
>(although this one could be repaired).  Glass is good.  Rubber bumpers 
>in good shape.  No major dings, dents, creases. Floor is tight, no 
>rust holes, just light surface rust underneath.  Panels all align, but 
>right door is slightly off, hinges feel loose.  Bonnet and boot lid 
>fit well, and are in good shape.  Weatherstripping and seals in poor 
>shape, except windscreen.  Newer soft top with unclouded windows.  
>Comes with hard top in good shape and good seals.  Has boot cover.
>
Sounds in pretty good shape - provided your local DMV agree and it
will pass inspection. 
Fix the weatherstripping as soon as possible (its winter!)
The hard top alone is likely worth the $400!!!!

>INTERIOR:  Complete, but seats are worn and driver's is split in 
>bottom cushion.  Gauges all appear to work; some switches screwed up.  
>Dash is, of course, cracked.  Carpet is fair, but pulled loose in many 
>areas.  Needs good cleaning all over.  Door panels in good shape, but 
>wrinkled.  Speedometer 'jumps' but is reasonably accurate.  Seat belts 
>work.

Nothing that cant wait by the sound of it - clean and lube the speedo 
cable, the jumping will likely go away. From experience, dont replace 
interior parts  piecemeal - do the whole job at once when you have the
money
except the switches of course which you will need for inspection
>
>ELECTRICS:  No DPO patch jobs that I could see.  Holds charge.  
>Hazards work on one side only; turn signal switch is shot, but 
>rebuildable.  Wipers work, washers don't.  Some switches are shot, as 
>noted.  Heater fan works on one speed, switch won't move to second 
>position.  Battery is new.  Horn sounds on one note only, other one 
>sounds sometimes.

All sounds like poor connections a/o grounds - cleaning them should
fix most if not all of this
>
>POWERTRAIN:  
>From your description it sounds fair - certainly a good start!!
Hard to say what will fail after a couple of hundred miles - and be quite
certain 
something will if it has been inactive - check as many seals and gaskets
as you can before a long run

 Engine sans air pump (did it have one?). 
Yes originally it did - is there a bracket on the thermostat cover! it
would bolt on there
also - is there an air manifold/gulp valve et al? - if it has been
desmogged it
could be expensive to replace the stuff if your local regs need it!!!
 Temp gauge went 
>to normal, oil pressure (electric gauge) showed 65 cold, 50 warm.

Certainly within acceptable range - have you had/done a compression
test??

>
>RUNNING GEAR:  Master cylinder needs rebuilt, as do rear wheel 
>cylinders. Good tires, wire wheels.  Front brakes seem OK, as does 
>rear axle, and e-brake.  Suspension felt OK, shocks good, no bizarre 
>shimmies or shakes, very slight pull to right.
>
Well, you cant use it until the brakes are done!!!!!!
Shocks can be deceptive on a dormant car - they can go soft quite soon 
after you start regular usage (buggered if i know why but it seems pretty
consistent) they arent especially expensive but they are hell to fit!

Watch the pull to the right - does it happen when you change gear? if so
it could be an engine mount or worse still, a rear spring hanger

Sounds like a bloody good car for the money, but as i said earlier, it IS
STILL
a $400 car so if you are going to rely on it to get around.......

Good luck

mike robson
69 roadster
70 BGT
72 roadster

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