Anyone pulled an MGC motor? Damn, that is a big hunk of iron.
The C/GT is teetering on high jack stands and I have most of the
below-decks stuff disconnected. I am trying to decide whether to yank
the motor with or without the tranny attached.
The sump is big, wide, and deep and has little forward clearence over
the main cross member. It looks as if it needs to go up about four
inches before it can go forward just to clear that cross member. Given
that, the tranny would appear to foul the heater tray before the sump is
high enough if the world were flat. If I disconnect the motor, I'm not
sure I'll be able to get that much room waiting for the tranny input
shaft to clear the clutch and fork.
On the otherhand, the transmission crossmember seems to be held with
four BMF bolts and, from the looks of the thing, removing the bolts will
provide the tranny with even chance at your chest. And it looks pretty
heavy, too. I suppose if you can get everything hoisted just right, the
tranny will drop by the tail, the motor will tilt to the front, and the
whole thing will float out of the engine bay given enough ground
clearence for the angle.
Unbolting the motor from the tranny looks doable. All I gotta do is
shrink to about four feet tall, become triple jointed, and have the
strength of Hercules to get the nuts and bolts from the 9 and 3
positions. Once the tranny is free, it's gonna wanna sink nose down.
Meanwhile, I'll be busy trying to lever 600 pounds over the grille.
As for hard points, there still is a loop at the back of the head but I
don't see anything obvious up front. I figure you bolt something to head
bolts are rocker hold downs.
Waddayathink? We are really having fun now! I'm starting to miss the old
1275.
So, what's the standard procedure here?
TIA,
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6, '61Elva(?)
"Law of Inverse Ratio Rhetoric: Hyperbole about a decesased person
expands to fill the vacuum of the person's substantive significance."
--George F. Will, Newsweek
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