Hi Bud,
The original coil on my TD seems to be conking out when hot also. A
new one is on order, as of this weekend. I was pleasantly surprised to
see that they are only $27 in the Moss list...probably should have had
one on my shelves long ago but anticipated that they would be
outrageously dear.
I asked the list about the testing of coils a couple of months ago.
Arthur Pfenninger was kind enough to send me this info, for which I thank
him sincerely. It's this sort of help that makes the list worthwhile for
me.
" Disconnect all wires to coil.
Set multimeter to lowest ohms scale. Connect to + and - posts. Reading
should be about 1.5 - 3 ohms. Much higher or lower indicates a bad coil.
Next check secondary circuit. Set meter to high scale. Put one lead on
either + or - terminal. You should get a reading between 6,000 and 30,000
ohms. Make a note of this reading and the scale you used to get it. If
your coil is good you will know in the future what a good coil should
read, and you can see if yours has changed.
The next test is for an internal ground. St the meter to the high ohms
scale and connect one lead to the + or - terminals and put the other lead
onto the case of the coil. The needle should not move at all. If it does
move, the coil is internally grounded and must be replaced.
A tip to MGA owners is to make sure that the coil does not rest
directly on the generator. The vibration has a nasty habit of wearing a
hole through the case of the coil causing the power to arc from the coil
to the ground."
I found my coil to have only 1100 ohms on the second test.
Bob
On Mon, 01 Sep 1997 08:48:46 -0400 Bud Krueger <bkrueger@ici.net> writes:
>Ronald Olds wrote:
>
>> I have some questions on the coil on my TD.
>>
>> The coil seems to quit working when it gets hot (heat from the
>engine
>> compartment). Does the coil quit because it is hot or is the coil
>bad
>> because it quits working when it gets hot? I had the car out
>yesterday
>> and
>> it was very hot outside. I usually don't drive in that kind of heat.
>> Once
>> the coil cooled down the engine would start again. I would
>appreciate
>> any
>> expert advise.
>>
>> Ron Olds
>
> Ron,
> The simple answer - the coil should not quit working due to
>under-bonnet heat. If, by any chance your coil is not an OEM type, it
>could be from the genre that require a ballast resistor when
>operating.
>They will get inordinately hot if running from a full 12 volts and may
>very well become a problem.
>
>Bud Krueger
>52TD
>
>
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