On Thu, 21 Aug 1997 13:40:49 -0500 (CDT) todd@nutria.nrlssc.navy.mil
(Todd Mullins) writes:
>> [ twenty lines of prose describing the shimming procedure, plus
>> additional commentary ]
>
>Having reviewed the procedure in detail once again, I present my
>original question, which hasn't yet been answered to my satisfaction:
>Why, exactly and technically, is this necessary?
Todd...I don't know why my original answer to your question didn't reach
you, but here follows a re-post of what I wrote........
On Tue, 19 Aug 1997 13:50:04 -0500 (CDT) todd@nutria.nrlssc.navy.mil
(Todd Mullins) writes:>REICHLE, CHRISTOPHER writes:>>> [ ... ] If
someone decided to take >> out the shims and torque it like an american
car would be done you >will have >> problems. The torqing of the nut only
squeezes the inner part of the >bearing >> (that does not move) between
the castleated nut/washer and the cone >with >> shimms.>>This is
something that I've never understood about the 'B, and when I>can't
understand something about the typically anvil-simple 'B, it >bugs>the
holy shit out of me.Sorry to interfere with your religious excremental
annoyance, but there is a reason for leaving the spacer in place and
using shims to set the bearing pre-load......When the castellated nut is
tightened against, in order, the outer bearing's inner race, the shims,
the spacer, the inner bearing's inner race and, finally, the seal
support, you effectively secure the outer end of the stub axle back
against the inner end and provide a much larger diameter axle for the hub
to rotate on. This added strength can be very important if you drive the
car hard!Also, what's the objection to setting it up the way the factory
intended? Sure, it take a bit longer but - when you are finished - you
know the castellated nut is tight enough not to come off without putting
too much load on the bearings themselves. LawrieBritish Sportscar Center
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