Lawrence J Alexander wrote:
> Buy some shims before you tackle this job again! install the bearings
> without grease but with just a light coat of oil. Selectively use the
> shims between the outer bearing's inner race and the spacer, then do the
> nut up tight. An educated guess at the correct end float is when the
> wheel spins freely but you cannot wobble it. Keep trying different
> combinations of shims until you reach the correct fit.
>
> Once you have reached that happy medium, disassemble the hub again,
> replace the oil on the bearings with grease, then reassemble and torque
> to the 40 to 70 ft. lbs figure given in the manual ( the range is to
> allow you to find a position where the split pin hole lines up with a
> castellation in the nut.)
Hey! What's the flat rate for changing wheel bearings?
I understand exactly what Mr. Alexander is saying and, in fact, tried to do it a
time or two. That "selectively use the shimms" part can waste away an entire
afternoon. Here is another example how our lovely LBCs have enough 'character'
for qualifying as 'soulful'.
I remember having a conversation (with Mr. Eastman, as I recall) about using
dial calipers to meaure the width of the spacer and the distance between the two
bearing races in the hub as the way to get a good starting point. I also
remember the spec is in thousandths so you require a pretty good set of
calipers.
Remember, the procedure requires you to assemble/disassemble each swivel axle at
_least_ twice. Boy! We're having fun now!
--
Bob Allen, Kansas City, '69CGT, '75TR6 and a derelict Elva
"Remember it is pillage, then burn."
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