Larry Dickstein wrote:
>
> My guess would be the fuse block. The 3rd fuse from the top, as I
> recall. Once the little clamps that hold a fuse get a little grungy,
> they stop letting the juice through. A little 240 grit paper on a fuse
> will work. Just roll it around a little to "sand" the terminals clean.
> The test is to see if you have current on both sides of the fuse. If you
> don't, the problem is the fuse block, or a blown fuse.
> BTW, is monadnoc the same as the PR24?
>
> Larry Dickstein
> bugide@juno.com
>
> On Sat, 02 Aug 1997 23:28:46 -0700 Wally Teto
> <monadnoc@wgserv.crystal-mtn.com> writes:
>
> > Everything working pretty well, except I have no response from the
> water temperature gauge, oil pressure gauge, and gas gauge. I know,
> sounds like a bad ground, but I checked the black common wire runing from
> these gauges to chassis ground with an ohm meter and I have continuity.
Thanks Larry. Acutally I removed the dash yesterday. I did not want to
do so but was at a loss to what the problem was. Here's a run down of
my subsequent fact-finding.
1. The power wire to the TEMP gauge was disconnected. Reconnected it
and the gauge works fine.
2. Replaced the oil pressure gauge with another, no luck. Replaced the
oil pressure sender with another, no luck.
3. Disconnected the oil pressure line at the sender unit and started
the engine briefly...oil squirting out of the hose tells me I have some
pressure, but how much? I was mostly worried that I had no oil
circulation. BTW, I installed an oil filter that I had hanging around
the garage. I'm sure it is not the stock filter for the car, just a
Purolator that was left over from some other car. But it fit the mount.
Is that a problem? I can't believe that would cause me to have zero oil
pressure.
3. Gas gauge not working may be due to failed sending unit. Have to
pull the one out of the donor vehicle and swap them.
4. I did think of the fuse as a potential problem. In fact during the
re-assembly of the car, I actually shined up all the fuse block
connectors and any wiring bullets, etc. that needed it. I am a nut
about electrical connector cleanliness. The fix of the TEMP gauge
eliminates the fuse problem.
The oil pressure gauge is the most disturbing. I really want to make
sure I have oil circulation but I have run this engine for about an hour
at various times with up to 15 minutes at a strech, so I'm sure I would
have heard the valve train rapping by now if there was no oil pressure.
I have circulation in and out of the oil cooler as well. I hate to
spend money on another oil pressure sender, as Moss price is in the
riciculous range of $130. My next step is to possibly attach a standard
pressure gauge from work to the end of the pressure switch line with NPT
fittings and see what I get for a pressure reading.
Sorry, no monadnoc is actually the old Indian spelling of Monadnock
which is the mountain in Southern NH where I work on weekends as
volunteer search and resuce and hiking trail maintenance.
Wally Teto / Templeton, MA
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