> > Solder all joints. Slip on a length of heat-shrink tubing first..
>
> Heat shrink tubing is one of those things I didn't use, but about four
> years ago I tried it. It is indespensible now, but I don't solder, I
> just pig tail and tube over it. Heat shrink tubing can be a good
> emergency repair item to keep in the kit, you can temporarely fix
> cables with it too.
> -Aron Travis-
> "always in a automotive frenzy"
>
Here's a handy hint when you want to tap a new wire into an existing
length of wire. Rather than cut the existing wire and pig-tailing
the three ends together, remove about a 1/2 inch from the existing
wire's insulation using a hobby knife or good adjustable wire
strippers, and take the insulation off of the last 1 1/2 inches of
the new wire to be added in. Poke through the strands of the
existing wire where you took the insulation off so that the strands
of the wire are divided in half, with an opening in the middle. then
pass the entire 1 1/2 inches of bare new wire through the opening.
Squeeze the opening in the old wire closed, and wrap the new wire's
exposed end around the uninsulated part of the old wire (both halves)
as tightly as possible. Now any tension on the new wire only
tightens the joint. It's impossible to heat-shrink this type of
attachment, since the original wire was never cut in two, but the
connection is strong as heck, and can be easily taped. I used this
connection often in installing alarms and stereos in new cars where
cutting the factory wire would bring on the warranty police. Since
then, I've come to appreciate its strength as well. Just make sure
you cut at least 1 1/2 inches off of the new wire's insulation, so
that it won't pull out of the opening you made in the old wire's
strands.
This is a good alternative to tap splices and Scotch-loks, because
tap splices and Scotch-loks always seem to cut through a few strands
of the existing wire, weakening it. Also, tap splices require a mal
and female part, and can pull apart.
Scott
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