"I have a question regarding the proper installation of cylinder head
studs. I've heard it said that the proper way is to install the
studs into the engine block hand tight, and that they will snug down
properly when the head is installed and torqued. "
I believe the studs should be roughly hand tight -- I seem to remember the
book saying 5 pounds. Everything I've read on this list indicates that
you should also chase the stud holes with a tap, and countersink them
slightly (especially the short stud between cyl 2 and 3) to prevent the
threads from lifting and creating an improper seal.
BTW, I had to buy a stud extractor (basically looks like a round socket
with a cam attachment on it, with the 1/2 inch drive on the cam -- KD Tools
makes one, but it's kind of expensive at $40 cdn) after my attempts of
removing two of the studs failed on my 74 roadster. I tried the two nuts,
the vise-grips, the grind a 5/16 hex head on the stud -- all with no luck.
There's an article at www.team.net/www/mg/tech/twist/jt-tech2.html that
talks about this. . .
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