Philip:
I would recomend that you go with a flat bed trailer. It is
very difficult to anchor a car inside a U-haul trailer or truck
effectively. It's amazing how slick the surfaces are in those things.
I speak from experience. i decided that the way to move my Landrover
cross country was in the back of the Ryder truck that was towing my race
car. I drove the truck down my rather steep driveway and got the Rover
inside with the help of some heavy planks. I then backed the truck out,
turned around and backed the truck slowly down the drive so I could load
my household effects. When I came to a stop there was a slight wooshing
sound and a light bump. Shaking my head I walked to the back of the
truck and tried to open the door. Strange, it seemed to be jammed. So
thoughtfully I drove back up the drive and hit the brakes, the same
noise followed by a little louder thump. Now the door opened easily and
there was my happy Rover sitting obediently just where I had left her.
Needless to say there was much tying down with heavy ropes after
that. The only tie downs were the wooder side rails which will not take
much load. Get me drunk one day and I will explain how you get a Rover
back out of a truck when you don't have the heavy planks anymore. I'll
give you a hint, you have to turn the trailer backwards and void any
warranty the manufacturer made.
Seriously. Protect the front of the car with padding. Use the
ramp type trailer, and don't worry about motel parking lots. The kids
are too busy stealing stereos to worry about TC knock offs.
This after trailer towing my 65 B race car all over the place.
And leaving an SCCA MGB car on a damaged trailer on the side of the road
in the middle of New Mexico overnight while I got the hubs repaired.
Kelvin.
Philip W. May wrote:
>
> Dear MG Listers: I've gotten many thoughtful and helpful responses to my
> second query that I sent earlier today. I've answered all personally.
> Several listers seem to think this subject has been covered (trailering) in
> previous threads and that's why no one was responding. I just joined the
> list this week, so I wasn't privy to those. Other respondents seem to say
> that I should rephrase my question and try again. I'll attempt to be brief,
> which is hard for me.
>
> I'm buying a nice '49 TC this summer. Car has been held for me by a
> friend's widow for a number of years waiting for me to get the $ together.
> I checked renting an OPEN U-Haul car transporter. I'll be towing behind a
> Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd. full time 4wd and a 318 CID V8 with Type III
> hitch. Trailer is about $550 one way. No problem with towing, simple and
> straight forward- maybe. But, car is nice and will be in open for a few
> days subject to weather, stones thrown up by Jeep, etc. Also open to
> thieves at night when I'm sleeping in motel and can't have car with trailer
> right at door. Too easy to remove knockoffs, etc.
>
> I thought about the 6x12 U-Haul enclosed trailer. Went to see one at local
> dealer. Trailer not made to carry car. Dimensions INSIDE trailer are these:
> 6' wide, 11'-8-1/2" long. Door width 5'.
> Smooth aluminum floor. Weight capacity for enclosed is 2000 lbs. It has
> brakes. TC supposed to be 11'-7-1/2" long, 4'-8" wide, weight 1750 lbs. It
> would fit- just. I'd have to cut a couple of inches off tailpipe and remove
> nerf bar bumpers that are on this car. Door should close.
>
> Trailer says to have 60% of weight up front. With TC in nose first engine
> should take care of that. Benefits: Trailer is $219 one way- half the cost
> of open transporter. Car is enclosed, out of weather and out of sight of
> thieves.
>
> I've checked a couple of commercial folks and they want about $1500 to do it.
>
> So what's the problem? IF I do this with enclosed trailer, need to figure
> out some way to keep car rigid and in place inside trailer.HOW? And need to
> know if anyone has done this. Need opinion on whether this is a brilliant
> idea or a really dumb one.
>
> I've trailered, flat-towed and driven old cars for 40 years. Have had four
> TCs, two 1934 PAs, two Morgans, a Healey BN2 and an AC Ace. Through all
> that, never thought of doing anything like this. Don't want to hurt car but
> do want to get it 3000 miles at least cost. Any ideas or experience doing
> such a thing? Thanks for your help. Phil May
|