At 11:01 AM 3/11/96 -0800, you wrote:
>Dear Netters,
>
>I've been having problems with some backfiring on my 1970 MGB-GT. I've
>checked the check valve on the air-injection manifold, it's OK. However,
>I suspect my gulp valve may not be operating properly. I've checked the
>manifold to Gulp-valve pipe for obstructions and it is ok. I pulled the
>gulp valve off and checked as to the movement of the valve, it was stuck,
>I worked the mechanism up and down a bit, sort of freeing it up and
>replaced it. The car still backfires. Has anyone any suggestions about
>repair or replacement of this device? I'd rather repair it if possible,
>given that it is $80+ for a new one.
>
>John Peloquin
>
John:
Sounds like you have found the problem (pardon the pun)in the sticking gulp
valve.
My suggestion is to again remove it and spray it with carb cleaner and try
to get the mechanism as free as possible. Sometimes even buying a new one is
no guarantee of an improvement, it once took me (back in the early 70's)
three units to get one that worked properly on my 71B.
Alternatively, disconnect the air pump's fan belt and be done with it.
Depending on your local state's inspection criteria, you can either leave
the pump disconnected or remove it entirely. Removing it entirely allows you
to store it (pumps left on the car tend to "freeze up") and then reconnect
it when it comes time for the emission's test.(This of course is only a
theoretical solution as disconnecting or tampering with an auto emission
system is a Federal Offense.)
Hope this helps
Stephen Patchel
Consulting Practice Leader
Radford Associates
voice: 408-321-2540
fax: 408-321-2650
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