I think Tim is inquiring as to a "rering" job, rather than a "rebuild".
He might plan to leave the engine in and just change the rings.
Tim,
if this is the case, you might not be able to do so if your bores are
worn too much. If you have a GOOD manual, it will tell you how to measure
the diameter of the bores with a special micrometer once you have the
head off.
In the unlikely event that your bores are not very worn, you can possibly
fit just new rings if everything else is in good shape. You have to hone
the bores so that the new rings will seat properly, and you might have to
ream away the ridge at the top of your bores. Special tool for this can
often be borrowed for free at a local parts store (e.g. Auto Zone, Checkers).
If your engine is too worn to do this, you are into a full-blown rebuild
($$$).
My advice: If you are going to rering, get the help of someone who has
done it before (it is standard practise with american V8s.)
But just as Ernest says below, you probably don't have to...
Ulix
On Mon, 20 Nov 1995, Ernest E. Gilbert wrote:
>
> >QUESTIONS:
> >1. Have I blown the Oil rings on one (or more) of my pistons??
>
> Unlikely that all 'oil rings' would go suddenly and with such a noise. look
> elsewhere for the reason it won't start before tearing it apart. Rings may
> be bad but the oil on the plugs has probably built up over time.
>
> >
> >2. Now that I have started to pull the head, I want to replace all the
> >rings for all four cylinders. Moss sells them in a kit, but what is the
> >difference between the ring kits which say:
> > a. std. (I assume this means standard)
> > b. 0.020
> > c. 0.030
> > d. 0.040
>
> Difference is deviation of bore size from original spec. Std is original
> spec and 0.020 is 20 thousandths oversize in diameter, etc.
>
> >
> >3. Should I wait to measure the cylinder walls before phoning in my
> >order to Moss for the standard rings?
>
> The size you need to order will be determined by the finish size of the bore
> after machining which can't be determined until inspection by the machinist.
> But he should have the new ones to fit when he does the work.
>
> >
> >4. Should I also order new cylinder liners?
> >
> New sleeves are only necessary when the bore cannot be saved at 0.040. Some
> go to 0.060 but this is max limit and variations in castings and prior
> service (eg. overheating) make this dangerous at best.
> >
>
> And you must, in all prudence, have the crank checked and turned if
> necessary, resize the rods (both ends), and use appropriate new bearings.
>
> My rule is never go to the work of removing and replacing anything without
> renewing the parts that wear and will require another r&r if they go bad.
> for example, if the engine comes out, the clutch and throw-out get replaced
>
> Of particular concern in the engine are the timing chain and tensioner, oil
> pressure relief valve and spring, cam bearings, and oil pump.
>
> gud luck
> Ernest E. Gilbert
> lawref@lawref.com
> http://www.lawref.com/lawref/
> http://www.lawref.com/lawref/eeg/eeg.html
>
>
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