>QUESTIONS:
>1. Have I blown the Oil rings on one (or more) of my pistons??
Unlikely that all 'oil rings' would go suddenly and with such a noise. look
elsewhere for the reason it won't start before tearing it apart. Rings may
be bad but the oil on the plugs has probably built up over time.
>
>2. Now that I have started to pull the head, I want to replace all the
>rings for all four cylinders. Moss sells them in a kit, but what is the
>difference between the ring kits which say:
> a. std. (I assume this means standard)
> b. 0.020
> c. 0.030
> d. 0.040
Difference is deviation of bore size from original spec. Std is original
spec and 0.020 is 20 thousandths oversize in diameter, etc.
>
>3. Should I wait to measure the cylinder walls before phoning in my
>order to Moss for the standard rings?
The size you need to order will be determined by the finish size of the bore
after machining which can't be determined until inspection by the machinist.
But he should have the new ones to fit when he does the work.
>
>4. Should I also order new cylinder liners?
>
New sleeves are only necessary when the bore cannot be saved at 0.040. Some
go to 0.060 but this is max limit and variations in castings and prior
service (eg. overheating) make this dangerous at best.
>
And you must, in all prudence, have the crank checked and turned if
necessary, resize the rods (both ends), and use appropriate new bearings.
My rule is never go to the work of removing and replacing anything without
renewing the parts that wear and will require another r&r if they go bad.
for example, if the engine comes out, the clutch and throw-out get replaced
Of particular concern in the engine are the timing chain and tensioner, oil
pressure relief valve and spring, cam bearings, and oil pump.
gud luck
Ernest E. Gilbert
lawref@lawref.com
http://www.lawref.com/lawref/
http://www.lawref.com/lawref/eeg/eeg.html
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