I had a similar problem with my 80 B. When tested, the alternator was
only puttin out 15 amps at idle and at 3K jumped arount from 12 - 40
amps. I thought it was the regulator but on the advice of a friend I
replaced the unit with a lucas rebuilt and no more problems. Sometimes,
in the long run it is cheaper to just replace the thing than to try and
troubleshoot, repair, retroubleshoot... Consider your time $ and see if
it is really worth the hassle.
On Sat, 7 Oct 1995, Jeffrey Taberski wrote:
>
> Get this:
>
> When the ignition light is on at idle, indicating (presumably) that the
> alternator is not charging, the car will shut off normally with the key.
> BUT...when the ignition light is OFF, the car will not shut off when the
> key is shut off. I had replaced the internal regulator when I got the
> car since it did not charge at all, but the ignition light still flickers
> at about 1000-1500 RPM's. Also, the headlights and dash lights flicker
> at night.
>
> BTW, it is a '77 B.
>
> I looked at the wiring diagram and see no diodes in the circuit. The
> only thing I can think of is a bad diode in the alternator causing a
> feedback through the ignition light circuit and thus the ignition. Can
> I just put a diode in line with the ignition circuit? Will I lose the
> function of the ignition light if I do this?
>
> Any thoughts are appreciated. I am about to order a alternator diode set,
> but would like other suggestions before jumping to this conclusion.
>
> Thanks,
> -Jeff
>
>
|