In <9509131605.AA12832@el.wpafb.af.mil>, Mark A. Dodd, WL/ELOD, X55581/64158
wrote:
>As A.B. Bonds posted, it depends on which carb we are talking about. He
>addressed the lack of leakage points in a DGV. I would agree with his point.
>However, as a past DGV from a Zenith converter, there are problems that
>brooked@bre.co.uk pointed out above that apply to both the DGV and the
>DCOE. My DGV worked, but I had the following trouble: The electric
>choke never worked. Clearly if you are going with a DGV, get the manual
>choke.
Cannot emphasize this too much. The electric choke (DGEV) version is
a swine. It sets the choke after the car has cooled down for only a
few minutes and can cause flooding.
>Secondly, the DGV out of the box will almost certainly not be right
>for a B. The carb was/is(?) an OEM item for a number of cars, and is
>set-up accordingly. Therefore to correctly set-up the carb for a B,
>you will be changing emulsion tubes and and air correctors. This
>has been done by others on the list (A.B.?) and you can get a good
>starting point. But it does mean that there are some hidden costs
>for the tubes/correctors.
Well, the one I got was certainly right for this A.B. (Get it, Ray?).
I don't know whether Steve gets his stock already set up or it was
sheerest accident, but the only fiddle I needed to do was (as the
Pierce Manifold instructions state) drop the float level 1 mm. After
setting the idle mixture, the carb has been spot on, with smooth idle
and good acceleration, no balking, etc. It also looks good on the
Colourtune for idle, acceleration and constant speed, which I could
never get out of the (rebuilt) SU's despite weeks of twiddling.
>The supplied manifold
>may also be a problem. Its thickness on my kit and all the others I quickly
>remember seeing is a different thickness than the exhaust header. Therefore
>you have to put in spacers of some kind to do it right. If these fall out, you
>once again have a leak, which is why you are probably changing from the SUs
>in the first place.
That is because there are two thicknesses of manifolds for B's.
Earlier cars had thick ears and later cars had thinner ears (or
something like that). On mine it required jamming in some 1/8" shims
between the big washers and the exhaust manifold. No big deal. I
used aluminum, which has grown solidly into place.
I am not proselytizing for the Weber. Just saying that it works for
me. I still have the old rig in a box somewhere.
A. B. Bonds
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