>OK, so prehaps I'm being pedantic but I heard of more problems with people
>installing a Weber than an SU. Sure they might work as well as an SU once their
>properly installed but you have got to get the right manifold or the carb hits
>the inner wing, do you want to fit an air filter or can you afford regular
>engine rebuilds, how much does a proper throttle linkage cost?
>
>I shall now get off my soapbox and wait to see what the replies are.
As A.B. Bonds posted, it depends on which carb we are talking about. He
addressed the lack of leakage points in a DGV. I would agree with his point.
However, as a past DGV from a Zenith converter, there are problems that
brooked@bre.co.uk pointed out above that apply to both the DGV and the
DCOE. My DGV worked, but I had the following trouble: The electric
choke never worked. Clearly if you are going with a DGV, get the manual
choke. Secondly, the DGV out of the box will almost certainly not be right
for a B. The carb was/is(?) an OEM item for a number of cars, and is set-up
accordingly. Therefore to correctly set-up the carb for a B, you will be
changing emulsion tubes and and air correctors. This has been done by others
on the list (A.B.?) and you can get a good starting point. But it does mean
that
there are some hidden costs for the tubes/correctors. The supplied manifold
may also be a problem. Its thickness on my kit and all the others I quickly
remember seeing is a different thickness than the exhaust header. Therefore
you have to put in spacers of some kind to do it right. If these fall out, you
once again have a leak, which is why you are probably changing from the SUs
in the first place.
If you go with a DCOE, you are likely in for even greater costs. This is a big
bore carb and to get the most out of it, you have to consider the entire system.
No other changes, and you are significantly over carbed. You will likely
need a header if you don't already have one. And to actually get the full
potential out of the DCOE, you probably want to do some porting/polishing
and better yet, get in at least a hot street cam. And while you are at it,
maybe
a complete rebuild as you are looking at major power now.
Despite this posting, I am not anti-Weber. I just want you to know what all
you may potentially be getting into. I would hate to see you dump $475 into a
new Weber and be disappointed at its performance because you didn't update
the whole system. The down draft DGV with manual choke would be a
reasonable carb for a stock B. But it has a few potential gotchas as well.
Mark A Dodd Working in the dark (infrared)
email: dodd@el.wpafb.af.mil Working in the grease (MGs)
Snail: 2700 D St, Ste 2 Working in the dust (212 Central
WPAFB, OH 45433-7405 Dayton, OH)
(513) 255-5581
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