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RE: paint stripping prep

To: "James Nazarian" <jhn3@uakron.edu>, <CraigFaubel@aol.com>, <mgb-v8@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: paint stripping prep
From: Barrie Robinson <barrier@bconnex.net>
Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2004 08:59:20 -0800
In-reply-to: <200403190552.i2J5qS1S024119@thunder.uakron.edu>
References: <6b.24b3b847.2d8bb894@aol.com>
Reply-to: Barrie Robinson <barrier@bconnex.net>
Sender: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net
I have used both sandblasting (Austin Healey) and chemical dip (MGB GT). If (and that is a big IF) you can really rely on the chemical dip company then that is the way I would go. They have to really rinse the shell properly. I found the dip does do wonders and gets off stuff that would be impossible with blasting - like bondo. But you have to determine if you want to do a fantastic job of restoring or just good enough to get you by for a few years. As I was going the V8 route I needed to know what shape the body was in. It seemed good but the dip showed where it lacked .....oooaaaaawwwhhh! Needed lots of body work!!!


At 09:52 PM 3/18/2004, James Nazarian wrote:
AFIK there are drawbacks no matter how you do things.  In every case the
drawback is leftovers from your stripping process contaminating your new
paint.  Chemicals will seep out of seams, and the media will get blown out.
I've always used aircraft remover to strip cars, but this time of year it
really won't work.  Last time I did a car it was about $30 and a weekend.
You will need a dual cartridge respirator.  I did it in summer in CO and the
paint came off about 6" behind my brush, in our current state of meteorology
I don't think it would ever come off.

One thing I have heard about the dunk tank is that it will open up every
single rust spot on the car so it will force you to fix every one of them.
If I were doing a car right now I would blast it, because making sure all
the chemical strippers are neutralized is a royal PITA; I have a 50% success
rate right now.  I'll show you my fender beads on the V8 if you want to see
what happens when you don't neutralize sufficiently.  Tanking the car also
means that the insides of the sills and other unreachable areas will need to
be protected as well so you will need a plan here too.

I would feel more comfortable cleaning like mad to get all the media out.
Definitely make sure the blaster knows what they are doing because if he
uses too aggressive a media it will cause too much heat build up and make
potato chips out of your body panels.  It happened to a friend of mine.
They typically require a pretty thorough degreasing so that you don't unduly
contaminate the media.  This may or may not be a problem for you.  AFIK the
media of choice for stripping body panels is walnut shells, although I think
glass beads would work too.

I would also have arrangements for enclosed transportation and someone to
shoot the primer so that the car can go from stripper to primer as quickly
as possible.  Last thing you want to do is get caught trailering a car in
the rain when it is in bare metal (BTDT too)

James Nazarian
71 MGBGT V8
71 MGB Tourer

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgb-v8@autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of CraigFaubel@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2004 9:45 PM
To: mgb-v8@autox.team.net
Subject: paint stripping prep

Have any of you had experience with chemical dunk stripping and/or media
blasting?  Is there a benefit (other than having someone else do the work)
over
stripping with a D/A sander?  I got estimates over the phone for $1500 for
the
chemical tank job (seems high) and around $500 for media blast job (also a
lotta money).  Neither includes a primer afterward and the car is entirely
disassembled already.  Do those seem reasonable for the Clevaland Ohio area?

Regards
Barrie

Barrie Robinson
barrier@bconnex.net
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