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[Mg-t] Almost ready to lift the tub

To: "mgs@autox.team.net List" <mgs@autox.team.net>, mg-t@autox.team.net, Rui Gigante <rui.gigante@gmail.com>
Subject: [Mg-t] Almost ready to lift the tub
From: Richard Lindsay <richardolindsay@gmail.com>
Date: Thu, 16 May 2013 17:42:54 -0500
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mg-t@autox.team.net
Hello Friends,

I've removed the floor boards from my '53 TD, mostly by drilling out
the heads of the bolts!  The new boards will be either re-drilled to
use new holes in the supports, or the the old rusty screws will be
drilled out and re-tapped.  But I'm not there yet.  However, its time
to start pulling the tub bolts.  The first one was a nightmare and is
going to have to be cut off.  I don't expect the next five to be any
easier.  I do have to admit that there is light at the end of the
tub-removal-tunnel.

I do have a few pictures to share.  Here's how the gearbox and prop
shaft look after removing the tunnel and tranny cover.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154105.jpg

And here's a look from the other side.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154145.jpg

You may notice that I have already removed (and left laying almost in
place) the two angle frames that support the inner edges of the floor
boards.  I'll cut the screws off and re-tap the holes if I can't back
the screw shanks out with oil and heat.

I took a few pictures of the pedal assembly and master cylinder but
they're poor focus and I'll have better pictures when I address that
area.

The last project for this abbreviated day, was to repair the wooden
panel over the differential.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130515_154208.jpg

Again, the screws are rusted in place so I will cut them off.  Instead
of trying to replace the T-Nuts into damaged wood, I chose to drill
new holes nearby, install new T-Nuts in the supports below.  Here's
how the board looks now with the old holes filled and new holes
drilled and countersunk.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_160307.jpg

Here's the same area with a new screw resting in place.  I chose
Phillips because the screw heads are stronger.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_160332.jpg

And here's how the entire board looks while the wood filler is still
still curing but with the new holes ready.  I'll refinish the board in
satin black after sanding, especially at the infilled areas.

http://www.aubard.us/MGTD/20130516_162252.jpg

Once everything is cured and dried I'll put the board in place and
drill through the open holes to locate the T-Nuts that will be
installed below.

-rick
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