Doug,
Though I made the change to silicone fluid for my TD years ago, I would not
do it again.
When first installed, I found that it leaked at the wheel cylinders whereas
the old fluid did not leak. Rebuilding the wheel cylinders with new rubbers
solved the leaking, for then.
Though silicone fluid does not absorb water, water does still condense in
the system thanks to the vented cap on the master cylinder. It then gets
pumped around and ends up as globs of water at the wheel cylinders. If they
are not regularly bled out, the water corrodes the wheel cylinders. One
should bleed the system annually, just enough to get clear, clean fluid at the
wheels.
When it does leak, it ruins the brake shoes. If there is just a bit of DOT 3
or 4 on the shoes, it can be scrubbed out, but the silicone fluid is in the
shoes to stay.
Although I was enthusiastic about it initially, that enthusiasm has waned.
Bob
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Douglas Ormrod" <Douglas.Ormrod@neurological.org.nz>
To: "MG T List" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] dual brake system
Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 08:39:04 +1200
If you wanted to invest some time and money into uprating the braking
system you could convert to silicone fluid. Does not improve the
stopping, but does not absorb water so you can pretty well forget about
it - once you have stopped all the leaks - which can be a mission
because silicone is more leaky than the original fluid. But it is an
opportunity to renew all the seals and hoses, resleeve the cylinders
etc.
Douglas
-----Original Message-----
From: mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net [mailto:mg-t-bounces@autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Andrew Moyce
Sent: Wednesday, 21 April 2010 6:39 a.m.
To: MG T List
Subject: Re: [Mg-t] dual brake system
I haven't been following this thread too closely, but I put a vacuum
servo, stock from Mini Mania into my TD and it made a big difference. I
mounted mine on the left bulkhead, moving the horn and voltage regulator
around to make room. If I had it to do over, I would mount it above the
rear axle. It needs a vacuum attachment from the intake manifold (I
drilled and tapped with a standard 1/4" plumbing nipple), and brake
lines to run between the master cylinder to the booster and back to the
T connector. My vacuum hose is rubber but I would probably use copper
tubing if running to the rear. The car stops with less pedal pressure,
but the drum brakes still fade on long downhills.
Andy Moyce
52 TD.
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