I must say, I'm really tempted to grind a tiny bit out of the shoe slots
that the Micram adjusters fits in. It feels like the wheel is just a half
click away from turning freely. I've had drag before with new linings
(turning the wheel by hand), but the drag always disappeared after the first
drive.
BTW: Evidently the local brake shop is not too concerned about drag. The
last time I had brake work done on the family sedan, the mechanic told me
the brakes were a little tight. He said they might even smoke but don't
worry, just keep driving. I guess his theory is that, when
push-comes-to-shove, the pad/lining is going to wear down before the
rotor/drum melts. In other words - Let the drum do the Arcing.
Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639
71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
Member: NEMGTR #11470
NAMGBR # 7-3336
Hoosier MGB Club
Olde Octagons of Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: "Walton" <waltonps@yahoo.com>
To: "Bob Donahue" <bobmgtd@insightbb.com>; "mg-t" <mg-t@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2005 10:38 AM
Subject: Re: Tight Brakes - Now I'm confused
> Good Morning Bob;
>
> Like Lew said; cutting or filing the metal shoe is probably not an
> acceptable fix. Have you had the drums ground? Are the shoes bonded, or
> riveted? Are you sure the micram has been backed-off fully in the
> counter-clockwise direction? Have you checked to make sure you do not have
> a sticking wheel cylinder?
>
> The shoes are interchangeable, however note the pad is not exactly
> centered on the shoe. The recessed side of the shoe must be placed on the
> micram adjuster
>
> Having the shoes arced to the drum will always help. Arcing is where the
> shoes are concentric arced and not flat radiused to the drums as you might
> think. The shoes are ground to be slightly higher in the center, and then
> tapered on the ends. Very few shops can perform the process anymore due to
> environmental restrictions being imposed, however you can chamfer the shoe
> in your own shop with just a file or sander. The bevel cut to both the
> heel and toe of the shoe can emulate some of the arching benefits and has
> no measurable reduction in performance.
>
> Good Luck;
>
> Walt
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bob Donahue <bobmgtd@insightbb.com> wrote: Hello Everyone:
>
> I'm confused. The problem brake is on the front right. I don't see any
> difference in the shoes, they look identical to my eyes. Are there
> supposed to be markings designating 'primary' and 'secondary'? Also the
> linings (pads?) face either up or down. I don't understand 'facing towards
> the front of the car'. BTW, these shoes are NOS.
>
> Also BTW, I used a drum puller I just bought from JC Whitney. Boy that
> really beats pounding the drum off with a mallet! The puller is worth it's
> weight in gold.
>
> Bob Donahue (Still Stuck in the '50s)
> Email - bobmgtd@insightbb.com
> Cars: 52 MGTD - #17639
> 71 MGB - #GHN5UB254361
> Member: NEMGTR #11470
> NAMGBR # 7-3336
> Hoosier MGB Club
> Olde Octagons of Indiana
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Walton
> To: Dave & Liz DuBois ; Bob Donahue
> Cc: mgs ; mg-t
> Sent: Friday, September 09, 2005 11:10 PM
> Subject: Re: Tight Brakes
>
>
>
> Hello Bob,
>
> I think Dave has probably diagnosed the problem correctly. Pull the drums
> and confirm that each side has one primary and one secondary shoe. The
> primary is always the one with the smaller pad, and should face towards
> the front of the car.
>
> Best Regards;
>
> Walt
>
> Dave & Liz DuBois <ddubois@sinclair.net> wrote:
> Bob,
>
> As I recall, I had the same kind of a problem on our TD many years ago
> and it turned out that I had the shoes in backward. Worth a check.
>
> Good luck,
> Dave
>
>
>
>
> Walton Smith
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Walton Smith
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