As to R&I the water pump, not that much problem. Remove the lower nut
(right side) and bolt (left side), in order to remove the engine steady
bracket. You might need to reduce the engine steady to its shortest
position, and remove nut securing rod to bracket on right frame. Pulley
might easily come off, to aid in doing this, or it might be tight.
If pulley fits tightly onto shaft, no problem. If pulley wobbles on
shaft, it will wobble onto new shaft as well. Phil Marino makes a
tapered shaft, and tapers your pulley to fit. $50.00 labor, plus $11.75
ea for the 6301 2RS bearings, plus $15.00 for the water pump seal.
$87.50 in all, for a rebuilt pump (yours), that should give you no
trouble at all.
I do a lot of work with Phil, and handle email for him.
If you install a rebuilt or new pump, without the taper, you should
assemble the pulley onto the shaft, and tighten, before installing into
the engine block. Nothing stops the impellor from being drawn into the
pump body, hence why you have to do this out of the engine. A new pump
has too much material on the lower left corner. It might contact the
engine bearer plate. The pump will not seat to the block, unless the
excess materila is ground away.
And, according to instructions with a new pump, you must spin it dry for
30 seconds, for the seal to seat.
John Seim
Irvine, CA
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