Bob,
On the phone, we discussed the possibility of the wheel cylinder pistons
going too far on a hard down-hill brake application and cocking due to some
combination of loose brake adjustment, too many drum turnings and older worn
brake shoes. As things cooled, the wheel cylinder pistons returned into the
cylinders and all seemed normal. Let me know what other folks say if any of
them do not post their reply for all to see.
Jon
-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Vargas [mailto:bobbyv@trilobyte.net]
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 11:37 AM
To: mg-t
Subject: 52 Brake Problem
Need some opinions. Went on a wedding aniversary drive up to Park City,
Utah in my 52 MG-TD. It was an excellent drive up the Provo canyon. On
the drive home, I made it down the canyon and when I got into the town
of Orem, I noticed the brake pedal was real hard. I continued to the
next light and again the pedal was hard, I had about a 1/2" play. I
then noticed the rear wheels started to smoke? When I finally pulled
off the road, I was really pulling the car! The hubcaps and wheels were
very HOT, and the wheels were burned! I raised the rear to check the
wheels, and they were locked, no movement. At first I tought it was the
emergency brake. My partner who had followed me drove me to get my
trailer. Upon arriving back to load the car, everything was fine, after
it cooled down?? The wheels were loose and I had brakes, the pedel
worked fine. I drove the car on the trailer, when I unloaded at home, I
drove it around the block and it again worked fine?? What could of
caused this? I have heard that it could be the master cylinder? Brake
shoes-worn down? The drum - worn out? Wrong brake fluid (silicone) that
heated up and expanded? I have removed the drums, which were pretty
easy to come off, as I was expecting the worse (melted parts) The shoes
look OK, the wheel cylinders were in place and no sign of leakage? Any
ideas, comments, suggestions, etc. would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Bob
52 TD
#12569
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