Kevin,
The car ID plate tells you the market for which it was intended. Chip
Olds broke it down this way in his Sacred Octagon articles--
Typical TF car number might look like this HDP46/1843
HD are all TFs, identifying as MG two seater
3rd letter is paint color A=black, B=light grey, C=dark red, E=mid
green, P=ivory
First numeral following letters identifies car class or market
1=home market RHD, 2 - General export RHD, 3=general export LHD,
4=No.America LDH, 5 = completely knocked down RHD, 6=ckd LHD
Second numeral, preceeding / identifies paint type. 3 = cellulose
enamel (lacquer in the US) 5= primed, 6 = cellulose body, synthetic
wings,
the next #s are the serial number
Bob
On Mon, 15 Nov 1999 19:17:14 -0600 Kevin & Deana Brown
<MGTRAutoXr@sprintmail.com> writes:
>Sorry to bomb the lists with this. Jan your mailer wouldn't accept my
>reply to your message, so here it is again:
>
>Jan,
>
>Thanks for the quick and detailed reply. I had not relized how rare
>the
>
>1500 model was when I looked at the car, or I would have looked closer
>at
>the engine. How can I verify if the RHD is original or not? It
>doesn't
>
>appear if the previous owner messed with the car at all. I actually
>went to
>look at a '64 Mini Cooper S, that the gentleman also had. It also was
>very
>original and well cared for. The gentleman also had a Porche
>Speedster
>with
>a factory hardtop and a TC that had been raced all its life (lucky
>guy!).
>
>I'll let you know how it turns out and I'll keep you in mind for the
>transmission. Thanks.
>
>Kevin
>
>
>
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