Assuming as you say everything disengages OK then what oil are you using in
the box? - the only case of this where there wasnt a clutch problem Ive
seen
was caused by very thin oil in the box, not allowing enough resistance to
stop
everything -- an EP 140 is what you need, an 80 or less could well cause
this.
Just a suggestion
Clive
Oxford UK
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Message text written by INTERNET:Kellmg@aol.com
>I've recently put my PA back on the road after an engine rebuild. A couple
of
days ago I put the first 100 miles on it. Except for the first few drives,
to
see how things felt, this was the main event.
During the engine rebuild I lightened the flywheel, replaced the shaft
spigot
bearing in the flywheel, retained the same clutch plate. Previously, I had
never experienced any difficulties with the clutch. Initially, after the
rebuild, the clutch was a dream to operate. The difference between the
lightened and unlightened flywheel was significant.
Now, however, a problem has occurred. The clutch has been adjusted
correctly,
as I see it, anyway. 3/16" gap between thrust and withdrawal disc. 1-1/2"
clutch pedal movement. The clutch finger adjusting screws were set up on a
dial, it runs true.
My problem is lack of disengagement. When the car is at stand still, even
with engine idling slowly, the gear box is still idling and the gear has
great difficulty engaging. In motion most times I drove it accordingly,
with
success. Some times it was a bear.
On inspection, the clutch driven plate appears to disengage each operation,
yet, when the gear is selected the gear box refuses to engage without LOUD
grindings.
What's the verdict? I'll consider anything, presently.<
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