Grib .... I hate to admit it..... but pushing your car is like pushing a
shopping cart... my car reminds me of a Freight train..... but we can fix
this issue can't we....
K ( yeah it's the real deal and it's time to buck up and buy one...)
----- Original Message -----
From: "rgribble" <rgribble@carolina.rr.com>
To: "David Freiburger" <FreiburD@emapUSA.com>; <kturk@ala.net>;
<land-speed@autox.team.net>; <joetimney@dol.net>; <ardunbill@webtv.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 10:52 PM
Subject: Re: Axles
> Guys,
> I agree w/ David as that has been my experience
> also.However...................................
> If you're building new, think about this; (food for thought)
> I sell (like new) 31 spline NASCAR axels for $35 each, however, they're
for
> a "full floating" rear which is standard on all NASCAR cars. There're good
> for at least 800 HP which is what the new SB2 motors are putting out
today.
> I sell a complete rear, (very strong housing, axels, drive plates, Wilwood
> calipers, brake pads and rotors, hub caps, new seals, bearings and hubs)
for
> about $650. These bearings are about four inches in diameter and you can
ask
> Keith how freely
> my car rolls. Add another $350 and I'll give you your choice of
> centersection (any ratio from 2:75 on up)
> You take the hubcaps off and slide the axels out of the center section in
> less than a minute. In another 10 minutes you can have the new
centersection
> installed, close it up and you're ready to go. (not much longer than a
quick
> change and more horsepower)
> Grib (who's always selling)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "David Freiburger" <FreiburD@emapUSA.com>
> To: <kturk@ala.net>; <land-speed@autox.team.net>; <joetimney@dol.net>;
> <ardunbill@webtv.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, September 05, 2001 2:12 PM
> Subject: Re: Axles
>
>
> > I just got back from 4 weeks gone and am diving back in.
> >
> > Here's the axle deal: Axles come through-hardened (like a Strange alloy
> axle) or induction-hardened (like an OE axle). The Rockwell on a racing
> alloy axle will often be lower than on a production axle because racing
> axles are often designed for drag racing where the axles need to give, or
> twist just a bit, to survive a launch. Because they are softer all the way
> through, they can twist further than an induction-hardened axle before
they
> reach the yield (which is the point at which they bend and do not return
to
> their original shape). With an induction-hardened or surface-hardened
axle,
> there is a brittle outer shell with a very soft core. The outer shell is
> where the strength is. However, the hard shell can easily crack when
> twisted. Once it cracks, it's all over. The soft core of the
> induction-hardened axle has very little strength. Materials and tempering
> affect the point at which this becomes an issue.
> > The other factor in axle strength is diameter. When you say "a 31-spline
> axle is stronger than a 28-spline axle," the real point is that the
> 31-spline axle has a larger diameter throughout, and is therefore
stronger.
> In the case of a Ford 9-inch, the larger axle will generally also have a
> better bearing design, which for land-speed racing, is probably more
> important (less roller-bearing speed thanks to a larger surface.)
> > Here's another thing I'm not too sure about: Strange once told me that
> some racing axles are not good for impact-loading perpendicular to the
axle
> centerline. That means hitting a pot-hole, like perhaps on a bad day at El
> Mirage. So maybe an OE axle is a decent choice.
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