Keith, I first engine turned some pieces in the 50s, and I have found
that
a drill press can do a good job, when used with a straight edge ( angle iron
or
flat bar ) clamped to the table to slide your work piece along ...... this
gives you
the nice straight rows, and you then advance the work the same amount each
time, after you determine the amount of overlap to the swirls that gives the
look
you want . I have used wooden dowels of different sizes and various pcs of
brass, steel or aluminum bar stock ..... even old valves with small diameter
heads . Valve grinding compound or a mixture of grease and grinding dust
from your shop applied to the end of the dowels at regular intervals can
produce the effect you want after a little experimentation, especially on
aluminum and brass, which are softer, of course . The end of an old worn
out countersink bit can be quickly ground down on a grinding wheel
until you reach the place on the taper that provides the right diameter
for the swirls ..... leave the end rough and it will give the desired results
.
Any piece of steel bar stock with a rough face on the working end
will work on steel and stainless parts ...... I have used an old fuel pump
push rod several times with good results .
A Bridgeport can do a great job at this engine turning, but not every
shop has one, and I have even seen some random pattern turning done with
a hand held drill ...... the parts looked very good .
In the era of the great classic cars that so often featured engine
turned parts both on the engines and various other parts, this technique
was often called " damascening " which was a term derived from the wavy
ornamental patterns often applied to Damascus steel, going back to
metalworking in the 16th century in Europe .
Have fun experimenting ...... I imagine the So Al Special and
the Bug Eye will soon be sporting some' Engine Turned by Turk ' goodies !
Bruce
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