Dick,
I do not have the recent experience of Keith or John, but I think the
stress on the rocker studs is more a factor of the spring pressure and cam
profile than imposed by the rpm. When I used to drag race, wild cam
profiles and the high spring pressures used in conjunction with them, made
screw in studs a necessity. (sorry to butt in, but trying to get in my
daily fix of LSR)
What part of East texas are you in? I am going crazy to find somebody
locally to discuss LSR stuff face to face. And actually "see" some different
stuff. I'm in Houston.
Regards, Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dick J" <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
To: <kturk@ala.net>; "John Beckett" <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
Cc: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 1:36 PM
Subject: Small Block building
> OKAY, that's it then. Why should I go and break
> things just to learn lessons on my own??? ha ha
> If the stock water pump and alternator are what
> you both recommend, then that's what stays. I'll
> just switch to a good elec fan setup.
>
> If I was going to write one letter to one cam
> grinder to tell him what I do and ask him to fix
> me up with HIS recommendations for cam, push
> rods, rockers, springs and retainers, who should
> I spend my stamp on?
>
> And, assuming I'm still gonna stay conservative
> on RPMs (maybe 7000 - 7500), are screw in rocker
> studs necessary or will the stockers handle it?
>
> Hey, don't laugh - -remember, I'm a hemi &
> flathead guy, and neither one of them have rocker
> studs!
>
>
> Thanks
> Dick J
>
> --- Keith Turk <kturk@ala.net> wrote:
> > Dick I am with John on this one... I would take
> > off the Fan.... but I would
> > leave the Alternator and Stock Pump....
> >
> > 6200 was all I spun my stock and later semi
> > stock 350 too.... it's plenty
> > high enough... if you can get the valve springs
> > and cam that would carry it
> > out some more....
> >
> > I am beginning to think I set limits that are
> > too low on all my motors....
> > but I have never pitched a rod out the side of
> > one.... ( knocking furiously
> > on all available wood )
> >
> > Will spun mine up to 8900 rpm and it seemed to
> > like it on the Bottle...
> > hmmm interesting.... now to find out if he
> > killed the springs or not...
> >
> > Keith
> >
> > ----------
> > > From: Dick J <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
> > > To: John Beckett
> > <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
> > > Cc: land-speed@autox.team.net
> > > Subject: Re: Small Block red Line
> > > Date: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 12:41 PM
> > >
> > > John,
> > > I was told the rear end was a 3.73:1 (Chev 10
> > > bolt). I didn't have time to actualy check it
> > > out, but I ran 126.5 at 6200 RPM with tires
> > that
> > > measured exactly 27" tall. That says the
> > rear
> > > end is something like 3.96:1 (such ratio not
> > in
> > > GM line up as far as I know). Even if I was
> > off
> > > reading the tach a little, it still checks
> > out
> > > something way to low for what I want to do.
> > > I'm going to swap it out for a Ford 9" this
> > > winter. I was thinking a 2.76. What Ford
> > ratio
> > > do you think I should go with? I know why
> > keep
> > > the alternator, but why not convert to
> > > electric-driven water pump? I was thinking of
> > the
> > > Moroso motor that drives the stock Chev pump.
> > Of
> > > course, I was going to add one or two
> > electric
> > > cooling fans in lieu of the clutch fan. Can
> > you
> > > suggest what valve springs I should get? I
> > heard
> > > you and Keith were both running Chet Herbert
> > cam
> > > stuff - -no?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Dick J
> > >
> > >
> > > --- John Beckett
> > <landspeedracer@email.msn.com>
> > > wrote:
> > > > Dick
> > > >
> > > > My suggestion, for your stock motor,
> > would
> > > > be to add a valve spring that
> > > > will allow you to go to 6500 RPM
> > consistantly.
> > > > Keep the belt driven water
> > > > pump & alternator. Add a good Fuel and
> > Ignition
> > > > system.
> > > > What gear ratio are you running in the
> > > > rear?
> > > >
> > > > JB
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Dick J" <lsr_man@yahoo.com>
> > > > To: "Joe Amo" <jkamo@rapidnet.com>; "Keith
> > > > Turk" <kturk@ala.net>
> > > > Cc: <land-speed@autox.team.net>
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2000 11:09 AM
> > > > Subject: Small Block red Line
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Not knowing a lot about Chev small
> > bolocks, I
> > > > set
> > > > > a self-imposed red line of 6200. I did
> > wind
> > > > it
> > > > > right to 6200 on my last run, and that
> > limit
> > > > > still managed to put me into the record
> > book,
> > > > but
> > > > > I'm wondering what a reasonable red-line
> > > > should
> > > > > be. I don't want to be breaking motors,
> > but
> > > > I
> > > > > do want to see what it can do. This is an
> > > > > all-stock Chev 350, 4 bolts, stock
> > rockers
> > > > and
> > > > > springs in 882 (76cc) Chev head castings,
> > > > flat
> > > > > top pistons, and a cam that specs out at
> > 260.
> > > > My
> > > > > plan for spring is to install an electric
> > > > water
> > > > > pump and electric fan. The motor would
> > have
> > > > > wound just a little more this year, but
> > with
> > > > > those changes, it will hopefully have
> > just
> > > > enough
> > > > > more power to allow a little tighter
> > winding
> > > > > (valve train permitting, of course). What
> > do
> > > > you
> > > > > guys think the max RPM for that motor
> > should
> > > > be?
> > > > >
> > > > > =====
> > > > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > > > > * Dick J *
> > > > > * (In East Texas) *
> > > > > * # 729 *
> > > > > * C/GRS C/FRS D/STR *
> > > > > * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
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> > >
> > >
> >
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>
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