Hi Folks, work has started on ArdunBill's HiBoy in light of what was
learned Sept. 30.
Called Flaming River for one of their FR 1010 Mag/Battery Kill Switches
since I am using the Vertex. ECTA calls for one of these for next year.
I'll mount it on a bracket on the frame under the rear of the body ahead
of the pushbar. They "ain't cheap" but I hope the quality is
commensurate with the price. We always hope that. I don't know of any
other piece that kills the mag and also cuts the current in the positive
battery cable, with one compact switch. I thought about making a
bracket with a std. big switch plus a toggle for the mag, but the regs
are quite specific, so rather than have a squawk at tech inspection,
which burns-out the organizers, "good soldiers" and
"right-thinking-types" as the Limeys say, will just get the Flaming
River item and stick it on there!
Have the parts to build a 290 Ardun in the shop, to replace the 239
"training-wheels" unit I ran on Sept. 30. XXF-GR runs clear up to 325
inches, but it would be some job to approach that. If anybody knows
how, tell us.
Got an order in to Currie for a 2.75 3rd Member for the 9" Ford. The
3.00 I was using Sept. 30 ran the engine 100 over the red-line in top
gear on the last run. Currie is also to supply a 2.50 R&P just in case
I ever get to that level. They can do a spool, new bearings and
good-used Ford gears for a price that seems reasonable. "Brian" at
Currie's went to a lot of trouble to be sure I got a yoke, etc. that
will make a direct replacement unit for the one I have now. I didn't
know it, but there are some variations within the general heading of "9"
Ford".
Called Tex Racing in NC for one of their NASCAR shifters for my
Borg-Warner four-speed. I believe these folks know what they are doing,
yet their version costs a lot less than what Jeg's quoted for the Hurst
equivalent. I have a M. Mouse shifter in there now. Tex uses the Hurst
"mixer", and the rest is their stuff. The shift lever is Hurst, from a
selection of many options, so I picked a unit that will better clear my
leg than the present one. You quickly learn that you want the most
comfortable and practical controls and arrangements in the cockpit, so
you can concentrate on the more important matters, with a minimum of
distractions.
Sept. 30 showed a definite need for a better clutch throw-out system
than the marginal mechanical setup I have now. Looks like Tilton has
what I need for a good hydraulic conversion. Obviously, the clutch
pedal pusher and the selection of Tilton parts has to be worked out with
care for the right results. I'll probably put at least a couple
alternate holes for the Heim joint in the pusher, to get the best
combination of low effort and enough movement in the throw-out bearing
to get a good separation at the clutch disc. The clutch is a 3200 lb
Ram 10.5" Borg and Beck.
Stopped at NAPA yesterday and got a case of 75W-90 Valvoline gear oil
(not synthetic, which costs more than double). Planning to use this
both in the gearbox and the rear axle. I believe this is advantageous
for a standing mile sprint, since we don't have any real way to get the
gear oil hot. From using it before in my Miata I know this oil gives a
good feel to the gearbox even when cold. I have to believe this oil is
more than adequate for the 9" Ford too, this isn't an Endurance race on
a Super Speedway with 700 horsepower, just a one-mile dragrace.
For what it's worth might mention I've been using 5W-30 Havoline regular
oil form "K-Mark", and the engine seems to like it. 60 psi oil pressure
all the time with a Mellings std. flathead oil pump. My thinking is
that this oil will flow and circulate even if I don't have a chance to
get it hot before running, yet when hot it will still have enough
viscosity to give good lubrication to the metal parts. Nothing failed
or broke Sept. 30, guess I'll have to try harder. Leakdown and mag
timing the same as before the Meet. No water in the oil.
After some thought I guess it's time to trim off the front and rear
frame horns on the '32 (Flatlander's repro, don't worry, not an
original) Ford frame. They stick out too much in the back if you don't
use the original gas tank, and I really like this 2 gallon tank we made,
that fits inside the front grill shell. Worked just like I hoped it
would. On the front, a '32 roadster looks, I think, just a little more
business-like and racy with the horns deleted, since they don't do
anything at all now, just something to scrape your shins on. The rear
will just be trimmed back so that the pushbar is a better fit, about 6
inches.
Guess that's about all the philosophy and news up to the moment from the
Great Dismal Swamp, Chesapeake, VA, Cheers from ArdunBill.
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