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30W non-detergent ONLY-no synthetics or expect leaks. Hank
For that to be true, you must have a gap in the seal larger than synthetic =
oil molecule & smaller that the conventional oil molecule.=C2=A0Gary
On Saturday, September 28, 2024 at 01:14:07 PM CDT, Hank Leach via Heal=
eys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
Yes, Harold has the best method! It is important to get some sealer onto t=
he threads-use a Q-tip if necessary but that is where the seal takes place =
or leaks. That hard gasket really does not seal well and oil won't soak int=
o it like as if it was cork. The gasket is just there to give you some sque=
eze movement.=C2=A0Permatex Aircraft is the best for that as it starts out =
liquid but then hardens to each surface. Often the "ears" get distorted fro=
m what Bob described as the chisel/hammer method of tightening and then the=
plug does not go all the way home. Then you need to get out the file.=C2=
=A0And thank you Harold!!! 30W non-detergent ONLY-no synthetics or expect l=
eaks. Hank
--------------------=20
From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold@telus.net>=20
To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net>=20
Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net>=20
Sent: September 28, 2024 at 9:31 AM PDT=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD drips Don,=C2=A0I had a leak in the large OD drai=
n plug plug as well. After several failed attempts with magic sealers to st=
op the leak I discovered the flange on the brass nut had a slight wave. I c=
arefully filed the flange until flat and dressed the OD opening=C2=A0as wel=
l. I applied Permatex Aviation Form-a-Gasket to the fiber washer and the bo=
ttom half of the threads. So far no leaks. I am using 30W non-detergent oil=
, synthetic gear oils will leak more readily=C2=A0than the 30W.=C2=A0Lesson=
learned is there can't be the slightest gap between the flange and the sea=
t. Try assembling=C2=A0dry without the gasket and see if the nut seats all =
the way around.=C2=A0Harold=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0=C2=A0On Sat, Sep 28, 20=
24 at 8:07=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrot=
e:
I'm having the same problem Don (well, I've always had it, but it's gotten =
worse). Years ago, when I had the gearbox/OD out I'd carefully flat-filed t=
he O/D, as there was some roughness to it, and it seemed to help. But, afte=
r the latest intervention the dripping increased. I tried a new gasket and =
a sealer that's worked well for me in other places--Permatex Seal&Lock--and=
still get some drips. I can't say for sure, since I don't have one of the =
old gaskets, but I think the newer ones offered are thinner around the peri=
meter (not thickness, the width of the 'rim' of the gasket; i.e. OD minus I=
D). That could be part of the problem, plus those fiber washers, used elsew=
here, are always tricky to get a good seal (S.U. went from the fiber gasket=
s to O-rings on their fuel pumps--you don't suppose?). Soaking with a light=
oil before installing helps; I don't recall if I did that last attempt.=20
I have a 'correct tool' as well, but it's still hard to get a lot of torque=
on the brass nut in situ. Back in the day, I'd take a drift and a 2-lb ham=
mer to it, but since getting a new plug I'm loathe to do that (but in despe=
ration I might try it). Another alternative would be to forgo the gasket an=
d just use the sealant, which worked well to seal a mis-sized plug on an 'u=
prated' water pump (thanks Steve K.). But, it could be that that sealant ma=
y not work as well on an oily surface (hard to get all oil off the hole as =
it keeps dripping for days).=20
Bob
On 9/28/2024 6:45 AM, Don via Healeys wrote:
Good morning all=20
Two days ago I installed a new washer on the large brass drain plug on =
the 67 BJ8 . Filled the transmission up . Looked at it in the morning and i=
t had drips on the bottom of the plug . So I used the correct tool and trie=
d to tighten it up . Then this morning looked again and there was those dri=
ps. When I installed it the surface didn=E2=80=99t look gouged or anything.=
So what=E2=80=99s the fix to stop the drips ? Remove the big brass plug ,=
get a new gasket for it , apply some kind of gasket sealer on the gasket, =
reinstall it and tighten as needed? Maybe add two gaskets ?=20
Thanks as always, Don=20
Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
telus.net
=C2=A0_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archiv=
e/healeys
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
n@aol.com
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp9c7d37yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"=
font-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div dir=3D"ltr"><br=
><blockquote style=3D"padding-left:10px;border-left:2px solid #0f69ff;margi=
n-left:20px"><strong>30W non-detergent ONLY-</strong>no synthetics or expec=
t leaks. Hank</blockquote><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">For that t=
o be true, you must have a gap in the seal larger than synthetic oil molecu=
le & smaller that the conventional oil molecule. </div><div dir=3D=
"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false">Gary</div></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydp328d89fcyahoo_quoted_7759625268" class=3D"ydp32=
8d89fcyahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydp328d89fcyahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Comic Sans MS, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydp328d89fcquoted-text-header">
On Saturday, September 28, 2024 at 01:14:07 PM CDT,=
Hank Leach via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydp328d89fcinline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844"><div><div>Yes, Ha=
rold has the best method! It is important to get some sealer onto the threa=
ds-use a Q-tip if necessary but that is where the seal takes place or leaks=
. That hard gasket really does not seal well and oil won't soak into it lik=
e as if it was cork. The gasket is just there to give you some squeeze move=
ment.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Permatex Aircraft is the best for that as it starts out liquid but the=
n hardens to each surface. Often the "ears" get distorted from what Bob des=
cribed as the chisel/hammer method of tightening and then the plug does not=
go all the way home. Then you need to get out the file.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>And thank you Harold!!! <strong>30W non-detergent ONLY-</strong>no syn=
thetics or expect leaks. Hank</div>
<div id=3D"ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844yqt40493" class=3D"ydp328d89fcyiv3049956=
844yqt5166265488"><div><br clear=3D"none">-------------------- <br clear=3D=
"none"><br clear=3D"none">From: "Harold Manifold" <manifold@telus.net>=
; <br clear=3D"none">To: "Bob Spidell" <bspidell@comcast.net> <br cle=
ar=3D"none">Cc: <healeys@autox.team.net> <br clear=3D"none">Sent: Sep=
tember 28, 2024 at 9:31 AM PDT <br clear=3D"none">Subject: Re: [Healeys] OD=
drips </div>
<div>Don,
<div> </div>
<div>I had a leak in the large OD drain plug plug as well. After several fa=
iled attempts with magic sealers to stop the leak I discovered the flange o=
n the brass nut had a slight wave. I carefully filed the flange until flat =
and dressed the OD opening as well. I applied Permatex Aviation Form-a=
-Gasket to the fiber washer and the bottom half of the threads. So far no l=
eaks. I am using 30W non-detergent oil, synthetic gear oils will leak more =
readily than the 30W.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Lesson learned is there can't be the slightest gap between the flange =
and the seat. Try assembling dry without the gasket and see if the nut=
seats all the way around.</div>
<div> </div>
<div>Harold</div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div> </div>
<div class=3D"ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844gmail_quote">
<div class=3D"ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844gmail_attr">On Sat, Sep 28, 2024 at 8=
:07=E2=80=AFAM Bob Spidell via Healeys <<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto=
:healeys@autox.team.net" rel=3D"nofollow" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.t=
eam.net</a>> wrote:</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"ydp328d89fcyiv3049956844gmail_quote">
<div>I'm having the same problem Don (well, I've always had it, but it's go=
tten worse). Years ago, when I had the gearbox/OD out I'd carefully flat-fi=
led the O/D, as there was some roughness to it, and it seemed to help. But,=
after the latest intervention the dripping increased. I tried a new gasket=
and a sealer that's worked well for me in other places--Permatex Seal&=
Lock--and still get some drips. I can't say for sure, since I don't have on=
e of the old gaskets, but I think the newer ones offered are thinner around=
the perimeter (not thickness, the width of the 'rim' of the gasket; i.e. O=
D minus ID). That could be part of the problem, plus those fiber washers, u=
sed elsewhere, are always tricky to get a good seal (S.U. went from the fib=
er gaskets to O-rings on their fuel pumps--you don't suppose?). Soaking wit=
h a light oil before installing helps; I don't recall if I did that last at=
tempt. <br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">I have a 'correct tool' as wel=
l, but it's still hard to get a lot of torque on the brass nut in situ. Bac=
k in the day, I'd take a drift and a 2-lb hammer to it, but since getting a=
new plug I'm loathe to do that (but in desperation I might try it). Anothe=
r alternative would be to forgo the gasket and just use the sealant, which =
worked well to seal a mis-sized plug on an 'uprated' water pump (thanks Ste=
ve K.). But, it could be that that sealant may not work as well on an oily =
surface (hard to get all oil off the hole as it keeps dripping for days). <=
br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">Bob<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"non=
e">
<div>On 9/28/2024 6:45 AM, Don via Healeys wrote:</div>
<blockquote>
<pre>Good morning all=20
Two days ago I installed a new washer on the large brass drain plug on =
the 67 BJ8 . Filled the transmission up . Looked at it in the morning and i=
t had drips on the bottom of the plug . So I used the correct tool and trie=
d to tighten it up . Then this morning looked again and there was those dri=
ps. When I installed it the surface didn=E2=80=99t look gouged or anything.=
So what=E2=80=99s the fix to stop the drips ? Remove the big brass plug ,=
get a new gasket for it , apply some kind of gasket sealer on the gasket, =
reinstall it and tighten as needed? Maybe add two gaskets ?=20
Thanks as always, Don=20
Sent from my iPhone
</pre>
</blockquote>
</div>
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