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This thread got me thinking. I had the cam ground at a reputable cam
grinder locally. (Web Cams) They have been grinding cams for Healeys since
the 60s. I just got off the phone with them and asked if they had hardened
the lobes of the cam they ground for me. When they looked it up the
paperwork showed the cam was simply ground, not hardened. They will harden
it for $50. Of course it has to come out of the assembled engine first.
Also Michael, the very experienced Healey engine builder that built my
short block, who has since passed away, told me to use the old used springs
for the valves. He said it would tick over nicely at 700 rpm. Of course
through conflicting information I installed new double springs. I still
have the old springs. As long as I will be taking this all apart again, I
might as well put just the outer set of used springs back on the head.
Mike MacLean
On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail=
.com>
wrote:
> Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet failure
> in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.
> I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I am
> now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very satisfactory
> and are different from those I have had problems with.
> I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that to be a
> very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil change=
s
> there was absolutely no metal on the plug.
> My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the inner valv=
e
> springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure that they
> produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely no sign of
> valve bounce right up to the red line.
> I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.
> On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes. (I
> have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's what the
> experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in go=
od
> shape).
> I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then change
> the oil every 3000 miles.
> The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter which is
> pretty unusual for a 100.
> I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged after 250=
0
> miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up wel=
l.
> I'm sure others have had different experiences but I would recommend tha=
t
> you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because rectification
> requires a complete engine strip down.
> Good luck.
>
> M
> (Still running perfectly with outer springs only)
>
> On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, <
> springer.mike51@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace the
>> modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do. I got
>> nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap wi=
th
>> the installed Welch tappets recently. Now, searching the archives, I f=
ind
>> someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a cam and
>> the lifters. So, what am I supposed to do now? Should I just buy
>> aftermarket tappets? Are the aftermarket tappets hardened correctly? W=
hy
>> wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened right? I don't want to replace the
>> cam after I get this thing running.
>> Mike MacLean
>> _______________________________________________
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>>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>This thread got me thinking.=C2=A0 I had the cam grou=
nd at a reputable cam grinder locally. (Web Cams) They have been grinding c=
ams for Healeys since the 60s.=C2=A0 I just got off the phone with them and=
asked if they had hardened the lobes of the cam they ground for me.=C2=A0 =
When they looked it up the paperwork showed the cam was simply ground, not =
hardened.=C2=A0 They will harden it for $50.=C2=A0 Of course it has to come=
out of the assembled engine first.=C2=A0 Also Michael, the very experience=
d Healey engine builder that built my short block, who has since passed awa=
y, told me to use the old used springs for the valves.=C2=A0 He said it wou=
ld tick over nicely at 700 rpm.=C2=A0 Of course through conflicting informa=
tion I installed new double springs. =C2=A0 I still have the old springs.=
=C2=A0 As long as I will be taking this all apart again, I might as well pu=
t just the outer set of used springs back on the head.</div><div>Mike MacLe=
an<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"=
gmail_attr">On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 6:47=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"ma=
rgin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:=
1ex"><div dir=3D"auto">Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bou=
ts of tappet failure in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be=
cautious.<div dir=3D"auto">I can't advise on the tappets that you have=
fitted but can say the I am now using sets from A H Spares which are provi=
ng to be very satisfactory and are different from those I have had problems=
with.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug =
and have found that to be a very good indicator of impending tappet failure=
. On the last 2 oil changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.</div=
><div dir=3D"auto">My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remo=
ve the inner valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pre=
ssure that they produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolut=
ely no sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.</div><div dir=3D"auto=
">I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.=C2=A0</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 min=
utes. (I have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's wh=
at the experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is =
in good shape).</div><div dir=3D"auto">I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 =
after 500 odd miles and then change the oil every 3000 miles.</div><div dir=
=3D"auto">The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter wh=
ich is pretty unusual for a 100.</div><div dir=3D"auto">I recently checked =
the valve clearances and they were unchanged after 2500 miles, another good=
indicator that the cam and tappets are holding up well.</div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">I'm sure others have had different experiences but I=C2=A0 would r=
ecommend that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because r=
ectification requires a complete engine strip down.</div><div dir=3D"auto">=
Good luck.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">M</div><div d=
ir=3D"auto">=C2=A0(Still running perfectly with outer springs only)</div></=
div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On=
Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, <<a href=3D"mailto:sprin=
ger.mike51@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">springer.mike51@gmail.com</a>> w=
rote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0p=
x 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><div>As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to repla=
ce the modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do.=C2=
=A0 I got nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to =
swap with the installed Welch tappets recently.=C2=A0 Now, searching the ar=
chives, I=C2=A0 find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles=
. Ruined a cam and the lifters.=C2=A0 So, what am I supposed to do now?=C2=
=A0 Should I just buy aftermarket tappets?=C2=A0 Are the aftermarket tappet=
s hardened correctly?=C2=A0 Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened ri=
ght?=C2=A0 I don't want to replace the cam after I get this thing runni=
ng.</div><div>Mike MacLean<br></div></div>
_______________________________________________<br>
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</blockquote></div>
</blockquote></div>
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