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We use Driven Break in oil 20/50 for the first 500 miles and then change =
over to Driven GPI 20/50 on all of our engines, and never had a cam =
failure
David Nock
British Car Specialists
209-948-8767
www.britishcarspecialists.com
From: Michael Oritt via Healeys=20
Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2023 7:44 AM
To: Michael Salter=20
Cc: Ahealey help=20
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets Again
At the risk of awakening Godzilla from his dormancy I'll go ahead and =
say the accursed letters: ZDDP!
Best--Michael Oritt
On Wed, May 24, 2023 at 10:34=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter =
<michaelsalter@gmail.com> wrote:
Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet =
failure in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious. =
I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say the I =
am now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very =
satisfactory and are different from those I have had problems with.
I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that to be =
a very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil =
changes there was absolutely no metal on the plug.
My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the inner =
valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure that =
they produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely no =
sign of valve bounce right up to the red line.
I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles.=20
On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 minutes. =
(I have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's what the =
experts recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in =
good shape).
I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then =
change the oil every 3000 miles.
The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter which =
is pretty unusual for a 100.
I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged after =
2500 miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are holding =
up well
I'm sure others have had different experiences but I would recommend =
that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure because =
rectification requires a complete engine strip down.
Good luck.
M
(Still running perfectly with outer springs only)
On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. Michael MacLean, =
<springer.mike51@gmail.com> wrote:
As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace the =
modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I do. I got =
nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to swap =
with the installed Welch tappets recently. Now, searching the archives, =
I find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. Ruined a =
cam and the lifters. So, what am I supposed to do now? Should I just =
buy aftermarket tappets? Are the aftermarket tappets hardened =
correctly? Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened right? I don't =
want to replace the cam after I get this thing running.
Mike MacLean
_______________________________________________
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<HTML><HEAD></HEAD>
<BODY dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: #000000">
<DIV>We use Driven Break in oil 20/50 for the first 500 miles and then =
change=20
over to Driven GPI 20/50 on all of our engines, and never had a cam=20
failure</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Century'; COLOR: =
#000000">David=20
Nock<BR>British Car=20
Specialists<BR>209-948-8767<BR>www.britishcarspecialists.com</DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt tahoma">
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #f5f5f5">
<DIV style=3D"font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
title=3Dhealeys@autox.team.net>Michael Oritt via Healeys</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 24, 2023 7:44 AM</DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A title=3Dmichaelsalter@gmail.com>Michael Salter</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Cc:</B> <A title=3Dhealeys@autox.team.net>Ahealey help</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Re: [Healeys] Denis Welch Tappets =
Again</DIV></DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: small; TEXT-DECORATION: none; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Calibri"; FONT-WEIGHT: normal; COLOR: #000000; FONT-STYLE: normal; =
DISPLAY: inline'>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">At the risk of =
awakening=20
Godzilla from his dormancy I'll go ahead and say the accursed =
letters: =20
<B><I><U>ZDDP</U></I></B>!</DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff"> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"COLOR: #3333ff">Best--Michael =
Oritt</DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Wed, May 24, 2023 at =
10:34=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter=20
<<A>michaelsalter@gmail.com</A>> wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV>Speaking as someone who has over the years had 2 bouts of tappet =
failure=20
in 100 engines I would suggest that you are wise to be cautious.=20
<DIV>I can't advise on the tappets that you have fitted but can say =
the I am=20
now using sets from A H Spares which are proving to be very =
satisfactory and=20
are different from those I have had problems with.</DIV>
<DIV>I have, in B.#174, a magnetic oil drain plug and have found that =
to be a=20
very good indicator of impending tappet failure. On the last 2 oil =
changes=20
there was absolutely no metal on the plug.</DIV>
<DIV>My procedure initial start procedure was to firstly remove the =
inner=20
valve springs as I have found that they and the additional pressure =
that they=20
produce are just not required as my engine exhibits absolutely no sign =
of=20
valve bounce right up to the red line.</DIV>
<DIV>I use Lucas 20/50 break in oil for the 1st 500 miles. </DIV>
<DIV>On first start I held the engine around 1500 RPM for about 20 =
minutes. (I=20
have difficulty believing that this is necessary but that's what the =
experts=20
recommend so you have to be sure that the cooling system is in good=20
shape).</DIV>
<DIV>I change to VR1 non synthetic 20/50 after 500 odd miles and then =
change=20
the oil every 3000 miles.</DIV>
<DIV>The engine in B#174 now runs with absolutely NO tappet clatter =
which is=20
pretty unusual for a 100.</DIV>
<DIV>I recently checked the valve clearances and they were unchanged =
after=20
2500 miles, another good indicator that the cam and tappets are =
holding up=20
well</DIV>
<DIV>I'm sure others have had different experiences but I would=20
recommend that you make every effort to avoid a cam/tappet failure =
because=20
rectification requires a complete engine strip down.</DIV>
<DIV>Good luck.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>M</DIV>
<DIV>(Still running perfectly with outer springs only)</DIV></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Wed., May 24, 2023, 8:46 a.m. =
Michael=20
MacLean, <<A target=3D_blank>springer.mike51@gmail.com</A>>=20
wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex">
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV>As I get closer to starting my 100 engine I have yet to replace =
the=20
modified Denis Welch tappets like a list member suggested I =
do. I got=20
nervous, so I ordered a set of NOS tappets from Ahead4Healeys to =
swap with=20
the installed Welch tappets recently. Now, searching the =
archives,=20
I find someone had problems with NOS lifters after 6000 miles. =
Ruined=20
a cam and the lifters. So, what am I supposed to do now? =
Should=20
I just buy aftermarket tappets? Are the aftermarket tappets =
hardened=20
correctly? Why wouldn't the NOS tappets be hardened =
right? I=20
don't want to replace the cam after I get this thing running.</DIV>
<DIV>Mike=20
=
MacLean<BR></DIV></DIV>_______________________________________________<BR=
>Support=20
Team.Net <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"=20
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