You have to pull the trafficator wiring harness up through the stator
regardless to get the trafficator out and the wheel off. Once you've
done that, I can't think of an easy way to grab the stator, so you're
better off just pulling the stator out at the box (i.e. 'by the book').
Two things cause the trafficator to rotate with the wheel: the stator
isn't secured by the olive and nut at the box end, or one or both of the
sections--long lower and short upper--are damaged somehow. They aren't
technically connected, the short upper part slides inside the lower and
has a dimple that fits in a slot in the lower. The slot is cut square
and it often cracks at the end (it should be radiused IMO).
When you get everything back together, presumably with a new stator,
make sure there's a small gap--20 thou or so--between the trafficator
and the hub so the hub doesn't drag the trafficator when you turn. Check
first to see that it's not just a loose olive and nut; if so, it will
likely leak quite a bit, but it's an easy fix.
Bob
On 2/12/2023 2:49 PM, Harold Manifold wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I have started to road test my car and discovered the trafficator
> rotates with the steering wheel. The car has adjustable steering and
> further investigation strongly indicates the upper and lower stator
> tubes are not connecting inside the steering column.
>
> Question - Can the lower stator tube be removed through the steering
> wheel end of the steering column?
>
> Any tips and suggestions on how to do this job are appreciated.
>
> Thanks... Harold
>
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