Re: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress

[Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>]

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I cut slots in the base of the rubber bumpers, loosen the bolts a turn 
or so, and slide them in. They don't move around.


On 4/16/2022 5:36 PM, gradea1@charter.net wrote:
> Bob-agree, the (steel) block is used when building up the suspension.  
> However, I also use it to "protect" those rubber rebounds as well.  If 
> you crush them you cannot replace them in position. The shock tower 
> interferes, so that in order to replace them, you must remove the 
> upper suspension (like when rebuilding-spring compress , etc.).  They 
> don't do much except if you decide to fly over railroad tracks. That 
> will probably crush them as well. Bob was concerned that hanging the 
> suspension would cause damage. I think its best to not put that kind 
> of load on an old iron bucket. Just try using plain wood blocks-they 
> splinter to bits.  Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys"
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 1:18:39PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress
>
> The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was at the 
> correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after replacing the 
> lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too often). If this 
> isn't done, the bushings could be in a bind/twisted, which would 
> likely cause them to degrade quickly and could affect suspension 
> geometry and handling. Beneficial side effects are a) keeping the bump 
> stops  from being crushed to oblivion when raising the car by the 
> chassis and, b) avoiding stress on the moving suspension parts. AFAIK, 
> 2in is the correct setting for 6-cyl cars as well. I went to the 
> hardware store and found a couple large bolts--5/8" thread or so--that 
> were 2 inches long.
>
> The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert (there's a 
> brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in their 
> brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the 
> suspension; begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon bushes 
> affect handling* and durability? Also, have been told the lower A-arm 
> rear brackets extend out farther than the front, pushing the lower 
> A-arm trunnion forward, which creates/contributes to caster. Anyone 
> know for sure?
>
> All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no adjustment 
> for camber or caster.
>
> * In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the steering.
>
>
> On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote:
>
>     Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf between
>     the shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop. If
>     you hang the suspension without the block, it will crush the bumper.
>
>     On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of 1-1/8"
>     plywood sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece of
>     wood. For the 6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is why
>     the book suggests you lift the front wheels from under the spring
>     plate, rather than any frame member. If you lift the car from the
>     cross member you need two blocks-one on each shock tower...Be sure
>     to remove them when you lower the car. If you forget and drive
>     away, they are probably out on the road somewhere. Hank
>
>     -----------------------------------------
>
>     From: "Bob Begani via Healeys"
>     To: healeys@autox.team.net
>     Cc:
>     Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM
>     Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress
>
>     I have been using my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the
>     trans and rear of the engine to install the new plate gasket with
>     lots of Right Stuff Permatex sealant and have just got the trans
>     back in. During this time, I would lower the car back on the tires
>     as one of you mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be
>     damaged by the weight of the tire if left to long on the lift.
>     Please remind me about the problem and how to use a wooden stick
>     and where to insert.
>
>     Pictures?
>
>     I hope to have the Healey on the road next week so I can see if
>     the oil leak problem has been solved for good.  Using Oil Dye
>     there was very little oil shown which may have been cause by not
>     torquing the plate bolts.  After torquing the right stuff squeezed
>     out in a few places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage
>     floor after a run.
>
>     Regards,
>
>     Bob Begani
>
>     BJ8 67
>
>
>

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    I cut slots in the base of the rubber bumpers, loosen the bolts a
    turn or so, and slide them in. They don't move around.<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/16/2022 5:36 PM,
      <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net";>gradea1@charter.net</a> wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:3637285b03310f99211344d68a4685fcb611aece@webmail">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      Bob-agree, the (steel) block is used when building up the
      suspension.  However, I also use it to "protect" those rubber
      rebounds as well.  If you crush them you cannot replace them in
      position. The shock tower interferes, so that in order to replace
      them, you must remove the upper suspension (like when
      rebuilding-spring compress , etc.).  They don't do much except if
      you decide to fly over railroad tracks. That will probably crush
      them as well. Bob was concerned that hanging the suspension would
      cause damage. I think its best to not put that kind of load on an
      old iron bucket. Just try using plain wood blocks-they splinter to
      bits.  Hank<br>
      <p>-----------------------------------------</p>
      From: "Bob Spidell via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
        To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" 
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
        Cc: <br>
        Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 1:18:39PM<br>
        Subject: Re: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress<br>
        <br>
        The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was
        at
        the correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after
        replacing the lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too
        often). If this isn't done, the bushings could be in a
        bind/twisted, which would likely cause them to degrade quickly
        and
        could affect suspension geometry and handling. Beneficial side
        effects are a) keeping the bump stops  from being crushed to
        oblivion when raising the car by the chassis and, b) avoiding
        stress on the moving suspension parts. AFAIK, 2in is the correct
        setting for 6-cyl cars as well. I went to the hardware store and
        found a couple large bolts--5/8" thread or so--that were 2
        inches
        long.<br>
        <br>
        The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert
        (there's
        a brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in
        their
        brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the
        suspension; begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon
        bushes
        affect handling* and durability? Also, have been told the lower
        A-arm rear brackets extend out farther than the front, pushing
        the
        lower A-arm trunnion forward, which creates/contributes to
        caster.
        Anyone know for sure?<br>
        <br>
        All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no
        adjustment for camber or caster.<br>
        <br>
        * In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the
        steering.<br>
        <br>
        <br>
        <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G
          Leach
          via Healeys wrote:<br>
        </div>
        <blockquote>
          Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf
          between
          the shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop.
          If you
          hang the suspension without the block, it will crush the
          bumper.
          <div><br>
          </div>
          <div>On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of
            1-1/8"
            plywood sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece
            of wood.
            For the 6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is why
            the
            book suggests you lift the front wheels from under the
            spring
            plate, rather than any frame member. If you lift the car
            from the
            cross member you need two blocks-one on each shock
            tower...Be sure
            to remove them when you lower the car. If you forget and
            drive
            away, they are probably out on the road somewhere. Hank<br>
            <br>
            <p>-----------------------------------------</p>
            From: "Bob Begani via Healeys"<br>
            To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
              moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
            Cc:<br>
            Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM<br>
            Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress<br>
            <br>
            <div class="WordSection1">
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I
                  have been using
                  my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the trans
                  and rear of
                  the engine to install the new plate gasket with lots
                  of Right Stuff
                  Permatex sealant and have just got the trans back in. 
                  During
                  this time, I would lower the car back on the tires as
                  one of you
                  mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be
                  damaged by the
                  weight of the tire if left to long on the lift. 
                  Please remind
                  me about the problem and how to use a wooden stick and
                  where to
                  insert.</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, 
sans-serif;">Pictures?</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, 
sans-serif;">Â </span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I
                  hope to have the
                  Healey on the road next week so I can see if the oil
                  leak problem
                  has been solved for good.  Using Oil Dye there was
                  very little
                  oil shown which may have been cause by not torquing
                  the plate
                  bolts.  After torquing the right stuff squeezed out in
                  a few
                  places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage floor
                  after a
                  run.</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, 
sans-serif;">Â </span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, 
sans-serif;">Regards,</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, 
sans-serif;">Â </span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Bob
                  Begani</span></p>
              <p class="MsoNormal"><span
                  style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">BJ8
                  67</span></p>
            </div>
          </div>
          <br>
        </blockquote>
        <br>
      </healeys@autox.team.net>
    </blockquote>
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