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The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was at the
correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after replacing the
lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too often). If this isn't
done, the bushings could be in a bind/twisted, which would likely cause
them to degrade quickly and could affect suspension geometry and
handling. Beneficial side effects are a) keeping the bump stops from
being crushed to oblivion when raising the car by the chassis and, b)
avoiding stress on the moving suspension parts. AFAIK, 2in is the
correct setting for 6-cyl cars as well. I went to the hardware store and
found a couple large bolts--5/8" thread or so--that were 2 inches long.
The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert (there's a
brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in their
brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the suspension;
begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon bushes affect handling*
and durability? Also, have been told the lower A-arm rear brackets
extend out farther than the front, pushing the lower A-arm trunnion
forward, which creates/contributes to caster. Anyone know for sure?
All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no adjustment
for camber or caster.
* In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the steering.
On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G Leach via Healeys wrote:
> Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf between the
> shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop. If you hang
> the suspension without the block, it will crush the bumper.
>
> On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of 1-1/8" plywood
> sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece of wood. For the
> 6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is why the book suggests
> you lift the front wheels from under the spring plate, rather than any
> frame member. If you lift the car from the cross member you need two
> blocks-one on each shock tower...Be sure to remove them when you lower
> the car. If you forget and drive away, they are probably out on the
> road somewhere. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Bob Begani via Healeys"
> To: healeys@autox.team.net
> Cc:
> Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress
>
> I have been using my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the trans
> and rear of the engine to install the new plate gasket with lots of
> Right Stuff Permatex sealant and have just got the trans back in.
> During this time, I would lower the car back on the tires as one of
> you mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be damaged by the
> weight of the tire if left to long on the lift. Please remind me
> about the problem and how to use a wooden stick and where to insert.
>
> Pictures?
>
> I hope to have the Healey on the road next week so I can see if the
> oil leak problem has been solved for good. Using Oil Dye there was
> very little oil shown which may have been cause by not torquing the
> plate bolts. After torquing the right stuff squeezed out in a few
> places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage floor after a run.
>
> Regards,
>
> Bob Begani
>
> BJ8 67
>
>
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The "2in block" admonition was to make sure the suspension was at
the correct ride height when tightening it down, say, after
replacing the lower A-arm bushings (not a job you want to do too
often). If this isn't done, the bushings could be in a bind/twisted,
which would likely cause them to degrade quickly and could affect
suspension geometry and handling. Beneficial side effects are a)
keeping the bump stops from being crushed to oblivion when raising
the car by the chassis and, b) avoiding stress on the moving
suspension parts. AFAIK, 2in is the correct setting for 6-cyl cars
as well. I went to the hardware store and found a couple large
bolts--5/8" thread or so--that were 2 inches long.<br>
<br>
The OEM A-arm bushings were rubber bound to a steel insert (there's
a brand name but I can't think of it). They were 'pinched' in their
brackets and, supposedly, contributed some elasticity to the
suspension; begs the question: Does using urethane or nylon bushes
affect handling* and durability? Also, have been told the lower
A-arm rear brackets extend out farther than the front, pushing the
lower A-arm trunnion forward, which creates/contributes to caster.
Anyone know for sure?<br>
<br>
All told, kind of a wonky way to rig a suspension, with no
adjustment for camber or caster.<br>
<br>
* In my experience, they do take some sloppiness out of the
steering.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/16/2022 12:56 PM, Henry G Leach
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:ab5082c0d118e76e4ef8b0f267e15e2ed494f1f4@webmail">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Bob-that caution was to insert a wood block on the shelf between
the shock arm and the plate...opposite the rubber bump stop. If
you hang the suspension without the block, it will crush the
bumper.
<div><br>
</div>
<div>On the 100 it would use a 2" block (I use a chunk of 1-1/8"
plywood sub floor) as it holds up better than just a piece of
wood. For the 6-cylinders I think it is 1-1/2" block. That is
why the book suggests you lift the front wheels from under the
spring plate, rather than any frame member. If you lift the car
from the cross member you need two blocks-one on each shock
tower...Be sure to remove them when you lower the car. If you
forget and drive away, they are probably out on the road
somewhere. Hank<br>
<br>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "Bob Begani via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>
To: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
Cc: <br>
Sent: Saturday April 16 2022 12:42:30PM<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Front Shocks stress<br>
<br>
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I
have been using
my Quikjack for the past few weeks to pull the trans and
rear of
the engine to install the new plate gasket with lots of
Right Stuff
Permatex sealant and have just got the trans back in.Â
During
this time, I would lower the car back on the tires as
one of you
mentioned that the front shocks wishbone could be
damaged by the
weight of the tire if left to long on the lift. Please
remind
me about the problem and how to use a wooden stick and
where to
insert.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial,
sans-serif;">Pictures?</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial,
sans-serif;">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">I
hope to have
the Healey on the road next week so I can see if the oil
leak
problem has been solved for good. Using Oil Dye there
was
very little oil shown which may have been cause by not
torquing the
plate bolts. After torquing the right stuff squeezed
out in a
few places so I am hopeful no more oil on the garage
floor after a
run.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial,
sans-serif;">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial,
sans-serif;">Regards,</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial,
sans-serif;">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">Bob
Begani</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:16pt;font-family:Arial, sans-serif;">BJ8
67</span></p>
</div>
</healeys@autox.team.net></div>
<br>
</blockquote>
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