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Price- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring. The=0Ablac=
k wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The=0Ared/whit=
e is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional=0Ablack wire=
which is for the panel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R=0A(no black)=
. The way it is currently wired creates a short to the=0Abattery-thus yo=
ur smoke and burned wires.=0ACheck your wiring diagram in the workshop o=
r owners book and INSURE=0Athat you know where each one is connected. Th=
e panel switch is just a=0Aknife break in the red wire and should NEVER=
GO TO GROUND. Consider=0Areplacing those burned wires. Then check the w=
iring of the voltmeter=0Aand assemble as Kees has described. Hank=0A=0A=
=09-----------------------------------------From: "R. Lindsay via=0AHeal=
eys" =0ATo: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey List"=0ACc: =0ASent: Monday June=
14 2021 9:26:47AM=0ASubject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Issue=0A=0A Thanks=
Kees. =0A I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, blac=
k to the=0Aright terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you sugges=
ting=0Aputting the green and black wires together on a terminal? =0A On=
the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the bla=
ck=0Awires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appe=
ars=0Athe grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the=
=0Apanel switch and the two black are connected elsewhere. When messing=
=0Awith the wires yesterday I produced a little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D=
and found the=0Ainsulation on red wire from the panel switch to the lig=
hting switch,=0Aand the two red/white wires between the tach and panel s=
witch were=0Amelted. =0A It seems the issue I am having is between the=
lighting switch, the=0Apanel switch and the tach, hence the burned wire=
s (the tach shuts down=0Awith the lights and panel switch are on, but ru=
ns when the panel=0Aswitch is on but the lights are off). =0A What do y=
ou think?=0A=0APrice Lindsay =0A Cell: 630-841-6300 Email: 050.rpl@gmail=
.com =0A Sent from my iPhone =0AOn Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudes=
luijs wrote:=0A=0A =EF=BB=BF =0A=0A=09Hi Price,=0A=0A=09If you did a=
straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will=0Ahave all sor=
ts of problems.=0A=0A=09The full current is passing through an Ammeter (=
no resistance),=0Ahowever if you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (v=
ery high=0Aresistance) no current can pass to operate the rest of the sy=
stem.=0A=0A=09You have to connect together the two wires that were on th=
e Ammeter.=0AThe plus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the acce=
sory or=0Aignition terminal of the ignition switch. The negative side is=
=0Aconnected to any suitable earth point.=0A=0A=09Kees Oudesluijs=0A
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<html><body>Price- Oh, someone has been messing with the original wiring=
. The black wires on the fixing post of the tach MUST GO TO GROUND. The=
red/white is for the panel lights, POSITIVE. There is an additional bla=
ck wire which is for the panel GROUND. The panel switch is R/W & R&n=
bsp; (no black). The way it is currently wired creates a short to=
the battery-thus your smoke and burned wires.<div><br></div><div>Check=
your wiring diagram in the workshop or owners book and INSURE that you=
know where each one is connected. The panel switch is just a knife brea=
k in the red wire and should NEVER GO TO GROUND. Consider replacing thos=
e burned wires. Then check the wiring of the voltmeter and assembl=
e as Kees has described. Hank<br><br><div class=3D"reply-new-signature">=
</div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "R. Lindsay=
via Healeys" <healeys@autox.team.net><br>To: "Kees Oudesluijs", "Healey=
List"<br>Cc: <br>Sent: Monday June 14 2021 9:26:47AM<br>Subject: Re: [H=
ealeys] Electric Issue<br><br>=0AThanks Kees. =0A<div><br></div>=0A=
<div>I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black=0Ato=
the right terminal and green to the left terminal. Are you=0Asuggesting=
putting the green and black wires together on a=0Aterminal?</div>=0A<di=
v><br></div>=0A<div>On the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=
=E2=80=9D where the black=0Awires attach to the gauges , grounding point=
s. On the tach,=0Ait appears the grounding point is connected to a=
red/white wire=0Agoing to the panel switch and the two black are connec=
ted=0Aelsewhere. When messing with the wires yesterday I produced a=0Ali=
ttle =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D and found the insulation on red wire from t=
he panel=0Aswitch to the lighting switch, and the two red/white wires be=
tween=0Athe tach and panel switch were melted. </div>=0A<div><br></=
div>=0A<div>It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switc=
h,=0Athe panel switch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach=0As=
huts down with the lights and panel switch are on, but runs when=0Athe p=
anel switch is on but the lights are off). </div>=0A<div><br></div>=
=0A<div>What do you think?<br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay=0A<div>=
<br></div>=0A<div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div>=0A<div>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.c=
om</div>=0A<div><br></div>=0A<div>Sent from my iPhone</div>=0A</div>=0A<=
div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote>On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees=0AOude=
sluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:<br><br></blockquote>=0A</div=
>=0A<blockquote>=0A<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF=0A<p>Hi Price,<br></p>=0A<=
p><br></p>=0A<p>If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltm=
eter you=0Awill have all sorts of problems.<br></p>=0A<p>The full curren=
t is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance),=0Ahowever if you replac=
e the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high=0Aresistance) no current can p=
ass to operate the rest of the=0Asystem.<br></p>=0A<p>You have to connec=
t together the two wires that were on the=0AAmmeter. The plus side of th=
e voltmeter you have connect to the=0Aaccesory or ignition terminal of t=
he ignition switch. The negative=0Aside is connected to any suitable ear=
th point.<br></p>=0A<p><br></p>=0A<p>Kees Oudesluijs<br></p>=0A</div>=0A=
</blockquote>=0A</div>=0A</healeys@autox.team.net></div></body></html>
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