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Thanks Kees.=20
I have 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the right t=
erminal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting putting the green=
and black wires together on a terminal?
On the wiring diagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the black=
wires attach to the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appears the=
grounding point is connected to a red/white wire going to the panel switch a=
nd the two black are connected elsewhere. When messing with the wires yester=
day I produced a little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D and found the insulation on r=
ed wire from the panel switch to the lighting switch, and the two red/white w=
ires between the tach and panel switch were melted.=20
It seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the panel swi=
tch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down with the light=
s and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel switch is on but the ligh=
ts are off).=20
What do you think?
Price Lindsay
Cell: 630-841-6300
Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM, Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote=
:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> Hi Price,
>=20
>=20
>=20
> If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter with the Voltmeter you will have=
all sorts of problems.
>=20
> The full current is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance), however if=
you replace the ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high resistance) no current c=
an pass to operate the rest of the system.
>=20
> You have to connect together the two wires that were on the Ammeter. The p=
lus side of the voltmeter you have connect to the accesory or ignition termi=
nal of the ignition switch. The negative side is connected to any suitable e=
arth point.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> Kees Oudesluijs
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Thanks Kees. <div><br></div><div>I hav=
e 3 wires to the volt meter- red/white to the bulb, black to the right termi=
nal and green to the left terminal. Are you suggesting putting the green and=
black wires together on a terminal?</div><div><br></div><div>On the wiring d=
iagram, there are =E2=80=9Ctriangles=E2=80=9D where the black wires attach t=
o the gauges , grounding points. On the tach, it appears the grounding=
point is connected to a red/white wire going to the panel switch and the tw=
o black are connected elsewhere. When messing with the wires yesterday I pro=
duced a little =E2=80=9Csmoke=E2=80=9D and found the insulation on red wire f=
rom the panel switch to the lighting switch, and the two red/white wires bet=
ween the tach and panel switch were melted. </div><div><br></div><div>I=
t seems the issue I am having is between the lighting switch, the panel swit=
ch and the tach, hence the burned wires (the tach shuts down with the lights=
and panel switch are on, but runs when the panel switch is on but the light=
s are off). </div><div><br></div><div>What do you think?<br><br><div di=
r=3D"ltr">Price Lindsay<div><br></div><div>Cell: 630-841-6300</div><div>Emai=
l: 050.rpl@gmail.com</div><div><br></div><div>Sent from my iPhone</div></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Jun 14, 2021, at 3:48 AM,=
Kees Oudesluijs <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></=
div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
<p>Hi Price,<br></p><p><br></p><p>If you did a straight swap of the Ammeter w=
ith the Voltmeter you will have all sorts of problems.<br></p><p>The full cu=
rrent is passing through an Ammeter (no resistance), however if you replace t=
he ammeter with a Voltmeter (very high resistance) no current can pass to op=
erate the rest of the system.<br></p><p>You have to connect together the two=
wires that were on the Ammeter. The plus side of the voltmeter you have con=
nect to the accesory or ignition terminal of the ignition switch. The negati=
ve side is connected to any suitable earth point.<br></p><p><br></p><p>Kees O=
udesluijs<br></p>
</div></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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