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I have brand new Daytons on my BN2. Not used yet at this point. Should
they be tried OK from the factory?
Mike MacLean
On Mon, May 3, 2021, 12:24 PM Henry G Leach via Healeys <
healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
> As a kid with no money, in the early '70, I thought it would be great to
> have chrome wire wheels on the finished example of the A-H100 that I had
> just disassembled. They would just look like Donald Healey's show cars.
>
> So, I took the wheels I had, picked up some additional used wheels,
> including one new affordable one I located, and disassembled all of them,
> breaking lots of spokes as I went along..until I eventually had enough go=
od
> spokes and nibs for 5 wheels. Remember this was the 1970s so parts for
> these cars were nil and so was the money to buy new chrome ones. The only
> affordable thing at that time was chrome plating. I had 5 wheels and hubs
> and countless spokes and nibs re-plated for $150!
>
> I polished all the spokes and nibs in a hobby rock tumbler used to shine
> beach rocks to gemlike appearance...took hours and days but not $$. The
> chrome plater assured me he would "anneal" the spokes so as not to get
> brittle in the process
>
> Forty-five years later they are on the car after spending hours assemblin=
g
> and truing. Was all that worth the effort, that now you can just order an
> Indian set from Moss for a grand? I don't know if a labor of love counts
> in this case, but I get lots of positive comments on the finished
> "affordable" product. Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Laurie Wilford"
> To: "gradea1@charter.net", "Harold Manifold"
> Cc: "healeys@autox.team.net"
> Sent: Monday May 3 2021 11:20:06AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> I have rebuilt and trued a number of wire wheels over the past thirty
> years, starting with replacing spokes on my Made in India Dunlop chrome =
60
> spoke set.
> I broke so many spokes on those wheels that I ended up purchasing spokes
> and nipples in bulk direct from Dayton.
> The information I was given by them was that truing wheels to plus or
> minus 0.030" was the best they could expect when building new wheels!
>
> Laurie Wilford
>
> Sent from my Galaxy
>
>
>
> -------- Original message --------
> From: Henry G Leach via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Date: 2021-05-03 1:40 p.m. (GMT-05:00)
> To: 'Harold Manifold' <manifold@telus.net>
> Cc: "'healeys@autox.team.net'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that, unfortunately, is too
> fine an instrument for the crude wheels that we have. It will drive you
> crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Looks like you got close and could not
> effect a change. Me too. That is probably as good as it will get. I thi=
nk
> the eye is a better judge of the "quality" of the wheel-if you see runout
> try to move it to be less. Of the five wheels I did I rated them as the
> best-worse and used #5 for the spare, putting the best on the fronts. The=
y
> are very close to "good" as round goes. A wonderful theory that in
> practical use has some forgiveness.
>
> You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service and they ma=
y
> be able to do a tighter finish. Folks swear that their trued, shaved,
> rebuilt wheels from them are the cats meow.
>
> A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize compound on all
> the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could possibly undo them
> later. Then at the other end, I used marine sealant on the hub nubs to se=
al
> in grease and seal out water. May work for awhile. I also ran a 2" duct
> tape seal over the nibs in the rim, in addition to the rubber rim seal
> (which does not cover them well.)
>
> The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one nib, you
> needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for the "pull" on th=
e
> shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they will distort. Fun experience
> to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Harold Manifold"
> To: "gradea1@charter.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM
> Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> Hank,
>
>
>
> Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret sequence for loosening and
> tightening the spokes. I have a dial gauge and can find the high spots an=
d
> low spots but I seem to be able to just move them around.
>
>
>
> I agree this will tedious no matter what.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
> *From:* gradea1@charter.net
> *Sent:* Sunday, May 2, 2021 6:21 PM
> *To:* Harold Manifold
> *Cc:* healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
>
>
> Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub mounted vertically and a
> fixed post each side using two coffee stir sticks as markers or guides.
> After lacing the wheel, rotate to first get rid of up/down wobble and th=
en
> tighten to keep wheel round-equally from each post. (photos)
>
>
>
> You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32, but the thread angle is
> Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a British tap to clean up threads.
> Don't use SAE.
>
>
>
> Its a tedious task but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run
> perfect. Check a bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
>
> From: "Harold Manifold via Healeys"
> To: "healeys@autox.team.net"
> Cc:
> Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM
> Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels
>
> Hello,
>
>
>
> What is the thread size for the spokes and nipples It looks like 10-32 bu=
t
> a threading die doesn=E2=80=99t seem to fit. Also, does anyone have a goo=
d
> procedure for truing wheels? I was told Out of Round first then Wobble. I
> did the Out of Round on one wheel and could get to 0.050=E2=80=9D but no =
better.
>
>
>
> Harold
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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>
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>
>
--00000000000039d79905c172ff2b
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto">I have brand new Daytons on my BN2.=C2=A0 Not used yet at=
this point.=C2=A0 Should they be tried OK from the factory?<div dir=3D"aut=
o">Mike MacLean</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" =
class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, May 3, 2021, 12:24 PM Henry G Leach via Healey=
s <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</a>&=
gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0=
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div>As a kid with no mo=
ney, in the early '70, I thought it would be great to have chrome wire =
wheels on the finished example of the A-H100 that I had just disassembled. =
They would just look like Donald Healey's show cars.<div><br></div><div=
>So, I took the wheels I had, picked up some additional used wheels, includ=
ing one new affordable one I located, and disassembled all of them, breakin=
g lots of spokes as I went along..until I eventually had enough good spokes=
and nibs for 5 wheels.=C2=A0 Remember this was the 1970s so parts for thes=
e cars were nil and so was the money to buy new chrome ones. The only affor=
dable thing at that time was chrome plating. I had 5 wheels and hubs and co=
untless spokes and nibs re-plated for $150!</div><div><br></div><div>I poli=
shed all the spokes and nibs in a hobby rock tumbler used to shine beach ro=
cks to gemlike appearance...took hours and days but not $$. The chrome plat=
er assured me he would "anneal" the spokes so as not to get britt=
le in the process</div><div><br></div><div>Forty-five years later they are =
on the car after spending hours assembling and truing. Was all that worth t=
he effort, that now you can just order an Indian set from Moss for a grand?=
=C2=A0 I don't know if a labor of love counts in this case, but I get l=
ots of positive comments on the finished "affordable" product. Ha=
nk<br><br><div></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: =
"Laurie Wilford" <u></u><br>To: "<a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@c=
harter.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">gradea1@charter.net</a>&qu=
ot;, "Harold Manifold"<br>Cc: "<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@aut=
ox.team.net" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a=
>"<br>Sent: Monday May 3 2021 11:20:06AM<br>Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spo=
kes and Truing Wheels<br><br>
<div>I have rebuilt and trued a number of wire wheels
over the past thirty years, starting with replacing=C2=A0 spokes on
my Made in India Dunlop chrome 60 spoke set.=C2=A0</div>
<div>I broke so many spokes on those wheels that I ended
up purchasing spokes and nipples in bulk=C2=A0 direct from
Dayton.</div>
<div>The information I was given by them was that truing
wheels to plus or minus 0.030" was the best they could expect when
building new wheels!</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Laurie Wilford=C2=A0</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-size:85%;color:#575757">Sent from my
Galaxy</div>
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div><br></div>
<div>-------- Original message --------</div>
<div>From: Henry G Leach via Healeys
<<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>></div>
<div>Date: 2021-05-03 1:40 p.m. (GMT-05:00)</div>
<div>To: 'Harold Manifold' <<a href=3D"mailto:manifold@telus.net=
" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">manifold@telus.net</a>></div>
<div>Cc: "'<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_bl=
ank" rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>'"
<<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>></div>
<div>Subject: Re: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Hi Harold- yes, I also used a dial gauge and that,
unfortunately, is too fine an instrument for the crude wheels that
we have. It will drive you crazy to try to "0" out the wheel. Loo=
ks
like you got close and could not effect a change. Me too.=C2=A0
That is probably as good as it will get.=C2=A0 I think the eye is a
better judge of the "quality" of the wheel-if you see runout try =
to
move it to be less. Of the five wheels I did I rated them as the
best-worse and used #5 for the spare, putting the best on the
fronts. They are very close to "good" as round goes. A wonderful
theory that in practical use has some forgiveness.
<div><br></div>
<div>You could send them assembled, off to Hendricks Wheel service
and they may be able to do a tighter finish.=C2=A0 Folks swear that
their trued, shaved, rebuilt wheels from them are the cats
meow.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>A couple of things I did in assembly: I used anti seize
compound on all the spoke threads-just enough to make so you could
possibly undo them later. Then at the other end, I used marine
sealant on the hub nubs to seal in grease and seal out water.=C2=A0
May work for awhile. I also ran a 2" duct tape seal over the nibs
in the rim, in addition to the rubber rim seal (which does not
cover them well.)</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>The only secret sequence I found was when you tightened one
nib, you needed to go to the exact opposite nib to compensate for
the "pull" on the shape of the wheel. Remarkable how much they wi=
ll
distort. Fun experience to do ONCE. Best of luck, Hank<br><br><div></div>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
From: "Harold Manifold"<br>
To: "<a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"n=
oreferrer">gradea1@charter.net</a>"<br>
Cc:<br>
Sent: Monday May 3 2021 8:44:09AM<br>
Subject: RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels<br><br><div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hank,</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Thanks for the reply. Did you find any secret
sequence for loosening and tightening the spokes. I have a dial
gauge and can find the high spots and low spots but I seem to be
able to just move them around.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">I agree this will tedious no matter what.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Harold</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #e1e1e1 1pt;padding:3pt 0in 0in =
0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"border:none;padding:0in"><b>From:</b>
<a rel=3D"noreferrer">gradea1@charter.net</a><br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, May 2=
, 2021 6:21 PM<br><b>To:</b> <a rel=3D"noreferrer">Harold Manifold</a><br><=
b>Cc:</b> <a rel=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br><b>Subject:</=
b> RE: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels</p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Harold- I made up this table with an axle hub
mounted vertically and a fixed post each side using two coffee stir
sticks as markers or guides.=C2=A0 After=C2=A0 lacing the wheel,
rotate to first get rid of up/down wobble and then tighten to keep
wheel round-equally from each post. (photos)</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">You are correct the spokes and nibs are 10-32,
but the thread angle is Whitworth (55 degrees-I believe) Use a
British tap to clean up threads. Don't use SAE.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt">Its a tedious task
but I did all 5 wheels for my 100, and they run perfect. Check a
bicycle/motorcycle shop for procedure. Have fun, Hank</p>
<p>-----------------------------------------</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin-bottom:12pt">From: "Harold
Manifold via Healeys"<br>
To: "<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">healeys@autox.team.net</a>"<br>
Cc:<br>
Sent: Sunday May 2 2021 4:35:21PM<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Spokes and Truing Wheels</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Hello,</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">What is the thread size for the spokes and
nipples It looks like 10-32 but a threading die doesn=E2=80=99t seem to
fit. Also, does anyone have a good procedure for truing wheels? I
was told Out of Round first then Wobble. I did the Out of Round on
one wheel and could get to 0.050=E2=80=9D but no better.</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Harold</p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<u></u></div></div>
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