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My dad, a former auto shop teacher, said that as a rule-of-thumb
compress them until their diameter is the same as the flat washers that
(typically) compress them. This works well for things like sway bar
links and 'radiator savers,' but elsewhere tighten so that's there's a
bit of a bulge. Of course, if they're 'sandwiched' both should bulge the
same.
The 'radiator savers' are subject to oil contamination and other abuse;
I recommend aftermarket urethane or nylon substitutes that should last
as long as we do (same for the bushes in the OD body).
bs
On 4/21/2021 8:03 PM, m.g.sharp--- via Healeys wrote:
>
> While talking about that stabilizer rod, I have never seen anything
> that gives good guidance on how much to compress the two rubber
> bungs. I have always compressed them so they just bulge, thus not
> allowing any play, but not so tight that the bungs are really deformed
> and loose any â??giveâ?? at all. I have never had an issue, just reading
> the posts and thought Iâ??d ask.
>
> Mirek
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> *On Behalf Of *WILLIAM
> B LAWRENCE
> *Sent:* April 21, 2021 10:37 PM
> *To:* Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com>; john harper
> <ah100tech@gmail.com>
> *Cc:* Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount
>
> Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install that new alloy radiator
> youâ??ve been wanting...
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:*Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM
> *Cc:* Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net
> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount
>
> All I can say is that rear trans mount is important but sounds like if
> it's just bent, just compensate for it when you cinch up your tie
> rod. Don't do like I did right after college when I was driving my
> BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't ask how I know
> this ð??±ð??ð??ð??±ð??±ð??ð??ð??ð??ð??ð??
>
> On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john harper via Healeys
>
> Michael
>
> You don't how it is bent but should the car have been in a heavy
> shunt the only thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from
> going forward is the tie rod. If this part of the cross member is
> bent it could reduce the distance from the fan to the radiator.
>
>
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My dad, a former auto shop teacher, said that as a rule-of-thumb
compress them until their diameter is the same as the flat washers
that (typically) compress them. This works well for things like sway
bar links and 'radiator savers,' but elsewhere tighten so that's
there's a bit of a bulge. Of course, if they're 'sandwiched' both
should bulge the same.<br>
<br>
The 'radiator savers' are subject to oil contamination and other
abuse; I recommend aftermarket urethane or nylon substitutes that
should last as long as we do (same for the bushes in the OD body).<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/21/2021 8:03 PM, m.g.sharp--- via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:00bc01d73724$14921fb0$3db65f10$@sympatico.ca">
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">While
talking about that stabilizer rod, I have never seen
anything that gives good guidance on how much to compress
the two rubber bungs. I have always compressed them so they
just bulge, thus not allowing any play, but not so tight
that the bungs are really deformed and loose any â??giveâ?? at
all. I have never had an issue, just reading the posts and
thought Iâ??d ask.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Mirek<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Healeys
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
<b>On Behalf Of
</b>WILLIAM B LAWRENCE<br>
<b>Sent:</b> April 21, 2021 10:37 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Alan Seigrist <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";><healey.nut@gmail.com></a>;
john harper <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:ah100tech@gmail.com";><ah100tech@gmail.com></a><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Ahealey help <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans
Mount<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Well Alan, it gives you a chance to install
that new alloy radiator youâ??ve been wanting... <o:p></o:p></p>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align:center" align="center">
<hr width="98%" size="2" align="center"></div>
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="color:black">From:</span></b><span
style="color:black"> Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</a>>
on behalf of Alan Seigrist <<a
href="mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, April 22, 2021 2:27 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> john harper <<a
href="mailto:ah100tech@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">ah100tech@gmail.com</a>><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Ahealey help <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] BN2 Rear Trans Mount</span>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Â <o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">All I can say is that rear trans mount
is important but sounds like if it's just bent, just
compensate for it when you cinch up your tie rod. Don't
do like I did right after college when I was driving my
BJ8 and not think that tie rod is not important - don't
ask how I know this <span style="font-family:"Segoe
UI
Emoji",sans-serif">ð??±ð??ð??ð??±ð??±ð??ð??ð??ð??ð??ð??</span><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Apr 21, 2021 at 4:27 PM john
harper via Healeys <<a
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote style="border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC
1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Michael <o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">You don't how it is bent but
should the car have been in a heavy shunt the only
thing that holds the heavy engine and gearbox from
going forward is the tie rod. If this part of the
cross member is bent it could reduce the distance
from the fan to the radiator.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
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