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Did you replace the rotor?
Jon
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 1, 2021, at 10:14 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF Easier to just disconnect it at the coil, if car's wiring is sto=
ck. Should be on the 'CB' or '+' terminal for a pos. gnd. car; white with bl=
ack tracer.
>=20
> Do you get spark at the plugs when the engine is cranked? If not, it's pro=
bably a bad rotor (new or not).
>=20
> bs
>=20
> On 4/1/2021 6:48 PM, George Haywood via Healeys wrote:
>> Mike,
>> Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the boot. Th=
is switch is notorious for grounding internally at the switch not allowing t=
he engine to fire. It turns over as if all is well, just won't start.
>>=20
>> Take care,
>>=20
>> George Haywood
>> '65 bj8
>>=20
>> From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike Sinclair=
via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM
>> To: AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
>> Subject: [Healeys] It just quit
>> =20
>> I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8). Was running gre=
at, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit. Tach went=
to zero instantly. Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, engine tu=
rns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter fluid. Not a whimp=
er.
>>=20
>> So far I have:
>>=20
>> Checked for spark at a plug. OK, but may not be under load.
>>=20
>> Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty.
>>=20
>> Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage at c=
oil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points, all 12v.
>>=20
>> Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked for s=
park on opening points. I get a good 3/16" spark.
>>=20
>> Checked point gap. 0.015". Points look new.
>>=20
>> Replaced condenser. I've heard they are not always ok. No change.
>>=20
>> The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points. Look c=
lean, no carbon tracks, etc.
>>=20
>> Puff test on carbs. OK.
>>=20
>> Any ideas? Coil?
>>=20
>> Thanks, Mike
>>=20
>>=20
>>=20
>> _______________________________________________
>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>=20
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/arch=
ive
>>=20
>> Healeys@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidel=
l@comcast.net
>>=20
>=20
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>=20
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ve
>=20
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>=20
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Did you replace the rotor?<div>Jon<br><br><=
div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote ty=
pe=3D"cite">On Apr 1, 2021, at 10:14 PM, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.ne=
t> wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D=
"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
=20
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
=20
=20
Easier to just disconnect it at the coil, if car's wiring is stock.
Should be on the 'CB' or '+' terminal for a pos. gnd. car; white
with black tracer.<br>
<br>
Do you get spark at the plugs when the engine is cranked? If not,
it's probably a bad rotor (new or not).<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div class=3D"moz-cite-prefix">On 4/1/2021 6:48 PM, George Haywood via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite" cite=3D"mid:MW2PR07MB394583AE415D2E3998658270C=
87A9@MW2PR07MB3945.namprd07.prod.outlook.com">
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html;
charset=3Dwindows-1252">
=20
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Mike,</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the
boot. This switch is notorious for grounding internally at the=
switch not allowing the engine to fire. It turns over as if al=
l
is well, just won't start.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Take care,</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
George Haywood</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
'65 bj8</div>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;
font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D"mailto:healey=
s-bounces@autox.team.net"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a> on beha=
lf of
Mike Sinclair via Healeys <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" hre=
f=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> AH Mail List <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-rfc2396E" href=3D=
"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] It just quit</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">I'm stumped. </font><font face=3D"T=
ahoma">The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8).
Was running great, then a slight miss for a mile or so,
then very suddenly quit. Tach went to zero instantly.&nb=
sp;
Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, engine turns
over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter
fluid. Not a whimper.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">So far I have:</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Checked for spark at a plug. OK, bu=
t
may not be under load.</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Checked for fuel flow at filter exit.&nbs=
p;
Plenty.</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Per instructions in the manual, opened
points and checked for voltage at coil SW and CB, at
distributor connection from coil, across points, all 12v.</fon=
t></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Closed points, removed high tension
lead from distributor and looked for spark on opening
points. I get a good 3/16" spark.</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Checked point gap. 0.015". Po=
ints
look new.</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Replaced condenser. I've heard they=
are not always ok. No change.</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">The distributor was gone thru recently,
with new rotor and points. Look clean, no carbon tracks,=
etc.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Puff test on carbs. OK.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Any ideas? Coil?<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face=3D"Tahoma">Thanks, Mike</font></p>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset class=3D"mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
<pre class=3D"moz-quote-pre" wrap=3D"">_______________________________=
________________
net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a>
Archive: <a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipe=
rmail/healeys">http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys</a> <a class=3D"moz-txt=
-link-freetext" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net=
/archive</a>
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net"=
>Healeys@autox.team.net</a>
<a class=3D"moz-txt-link-freetext" href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/lis=
tinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a>
team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net">http://autox.team.net=
/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
=20
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