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Easier to just disconnect it at the coil, if car's wiring is stock.
Should be on the 'CB' or '+' terminal for a pos. gnd. car; white with
black tracer.
Do you get spark at the plugs when the engine is cranked? If not, it's
probably a bad rotor (new or not).
bs
On 4/1/2021 6:48 PM, George Haywood via Healeys wrote:
> Mike,
> Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the boot.
> This switch is notorious for grounding internally at the switch not
> allowing the engine to fire. It turns over as if all is well, just
> won't start.
>
> Take care,
>
> George Haywood
> '65 bj8
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Mike
> Sinclair via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM
> *To:* AH Mail List <healeys@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [Healeys] It just quit
>
> I'm stumped. The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8). Was running
> great, then a slight miss for a mile or so, then very suddenly quit.
> Tach went to zero instantly. Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for
> awhile, engine turns over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with
> starter fluid. Not a whimper.
>
> So far I have:
>
> Checked for spark at a plug. OK, but may not be under load.
>
> Checked for fuel flow at filter exit. Plenty.
>
> Per instructions in the manual, opened points and checked for voltage
> at coil SW and CB, at distributor connection from coil, across points,
> all 12v.
>
> Closed points, removed high tension lead from distributor and looked
> for spark on opening points. I get a good 3/16" spark.
>
> Checked point gap. 0.015". Points look new.
>
> Replaced condenser. I've heard they are not always ok. No change.
>
> The distributor was gone thru recently, with new rotor and points.
> Look clean, no carbon tracks, etc.
>
> Puff test on carbs. OK.
>
> Any ideas? Coil?
>
> Thanks, Mike
>
>
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Easier to just disconnect it at the coil, if car's wiring is stock.
Should be on the 'CB' or '+' terminal for a pos. gnd. car; white
with black tracer.<br>
<br>
Do you get spark at the plugs when the engine is cranked? If not,
it's probably a bad rotor (new or not).<br>
<br>
bs<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/1/2021 6:48 PM, George Haywood via
Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:MW2PR07MB394583AE415D2E3998658270C87A9@MW2PR07MB3945.namprd07.prod.outlook.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;
charset=windows-1252">
<style type="text/css" style="display:none;">P
{margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;}</style>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Mike,</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Try disconnecting the white wire from the battery switch in the
boot. This switch is notorious for grounding internally at the
switch not allowing the engine to fire. It turns over as if all
is well, just won't start.</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Take care,</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
George Haywood</div>
<div style="font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;
font-size: 12pt; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
'65 bj8</div>
<div>
<div style="font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;
font-size:12pt; color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id="divRplyFwdMsg" dir="ltr"><font style="font-size:11pt"
face="Calibri, sans-serif" color="#000000"><b>From:</b>
Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"><healeys-bounces@autox.team.net></a>
on behalf of
Mike Sinclair via Healeys <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Thursday, April 1, 2021 9:16 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> AH Mail List <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> [Healeys] It just quit</font>
<div> </div>
</div>
<div>
<p><font face="Tahoma">I'm stumped. </font><font
face="Tahoma">The Healey quit on me the other day (BJ8).
Was running great, then a slight miss for a mile or so,
then very suddenly quit. Tach went to zero instantly.
Fuel pump clicks after it has sat for awhile, engine turns
over rapidly, but nothing happens, even with starter
fluid. Not a whimper.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">So far I have:</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Checked for spark at a plug. OK, but
may not be under load.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Checked for fuel flow at filter exit.
Plenty.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Per instructions in the manual, opened
points and checked for voltage at coil SW and CB, at
distributor connection from coil, across points, all
12v.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Closed points, removed high tension
lead from distributor and looked for spark on opening
points. I get a good 3/16" spark.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Checked point gap. 0.015". Points
look new.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Replaced condenser. I've heard they
are not always ok. No change.</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">The distributor was gone thru recently,
with new rotor and points. Look clean, no carbon tracks,
etc.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Puff test on carbs. OK.<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Any ideas? Coil?<br>
</font></p>
<p><font face="Tahoma">Thanks, Mike</font></p>
</div>
</div>
<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
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