--===============0652085630658689957==
--00000000000051446d05bbee112d
Bob wrote: "I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a
pretty harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly
less antagonistic to rubber."
--------------------------------------------
50 to 75 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.
Maybe we should now be searching for silicon-based motor oils?
Best--Michael Oritt
On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
> re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life which
> originals are now reaching."
>
> I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh
> environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts with
> a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonistic
> to rubber.
>
> Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal 'slinger'
> plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an original plate to one
> of their newer replacements; anyone tried this (it requires rivets)?
>
>
> On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter via Healeys wrote:
>
> Until fairly recent years I had never experienced the breaking up of the
> rubber slipper on timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently
> disassembled had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
> original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a definite life
> which originals are now reaching.
>
> M
>
> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27 PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <
> healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
>> In the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell said: "By no
>> means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine."
>>
>> About a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the oil pump
>> and found numerous chunks of what seemed like very hard black plastic
>> distributed throughout the sump. This was a head scratcher as I knew there
>> could be no plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was. After
>> thinking about it further I decided that it could only have been the
>> remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner and sure enough when I pulled
>> the front cover I saw that the tensioner was non-existent and the chain
>> pretty loose. I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy job--and
>> magically a chattering sound that had been appearing at certain
>> rpm's disappeared, no doubt a harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.
>>
>> Best--Michael Oritt
>>
>> On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 12:17 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Most mechanics favor modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one
>>> piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue smoke from the
>>> tailpipe.
>>>
>>> By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of an engine.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:
>>> > All -
>>> >
>>> > On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and this seal came
>>> > off the upper part of the valve guide.
>>> >
>>> > It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud which no one
>>> > sells. I assume the best thing is to remove it and chuck it,
>>> > correct? It's already half disintegrated and I'm not really worried
>>> > but would prefer to not put it back on and have old rubber parts
>>> > getting into the oil.
>>> >
>>> > Am I correct to not put it back on? No one seems to sell these.
>>> >
>>> > Best,
>>> >
>>> > Alan
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
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>>>
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>>>
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--00000000000051446d05bbee112d
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><span style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,255)">Bob wrote:=C2=A0 </span><font color=3D"#0000ff">"I&=
#39;m surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty harsh=
environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any rubber parts =
with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is supposedly less antagonis=
tic to rubber."</font></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><f=
ont color=3D"#0000ff">--------------------------------------------</font></=
div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff">50 to 7=
5 years is a pretty good replacement cycle.=C2=A0=C2=A0</font></div><div cl=
ass=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff">Maybe we should no=
w be searching for silicon-based motor oils?</font></div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff"><br></font></div><div class=
=3D"gmail_default" style=3D""><font color=3D"#0000ff">Best--Michael Oritt</=
font></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 3:47 PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailt=
o:bspidell@comcast.net">bspidell@comcast.net</a>> wrote:<br></div><block=
quote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
re: "... I'm wondering if these things have a definite life wh=
ich
originals are now reaching."<br>
<br>
I'm surprised they lasted this long--if they did--it's a pretty
harsh environment for rubber. As a rule, I don't lubricate any
rubber parts with a petroleum-based grease or oil; silicone is
supposedly less antagonistic to rubber.<br>
<br>
Side note: The original car gear for the 4-cyls, with the metal
'slinger' plate are NLA. A Moss blurb advises transferring an
original plate to one of their newer replacements; anyone tried this
(it requires rivets)?<br>
<br>
<br>
<div>On 2/21/2021 12:37 PM, Michael Salter
via Healeys wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans =
ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">Until fairly recent years I had
never experienced the breaking up of the rubber slipper on
timing chain tensioners but the engine I recently disassembled
had one that was completely destroyed. Apparently this was the
original tensioner so I'm wondering if these things have a
definite life which originals are now reaching.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans =
ms",sans-serif;font-size:small"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:"comic sans =
ms",sans-serif;font-size:small">M<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at 2:27
PM Michael Oritt via Healeys <<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.=
team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex=
;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">In
the string about rubber valve seal shrouds Bob Spidell
said:=C2=A0 "By no means let crumbling rubber parts see =
the
inside of an engine."</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br=
>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Abo=
ut
a year back I dropped the oil pan on my 100 to replace the
oil pump and found numerous chunks of what seemed like
very hard black plastic distributed throughout the sump.=C2=
=A0
This was a head scratcher as I knew there could be no
plastic in the engine's interior yet there it was.=C2=A0 =
After
thinking=C2=A0about it further I decided that it could only
have been the remains of the rubber timing chain tensioner
and sure enough when I pulled the front cover I saw that
the tensioner was non-existent=C2=A0and the chain pretty
loose.=C2=A0 I replaced the chain and tensioner--not an easy
job--and magically a chattering sound that had
been=C2=A0appearing at certain rpm's=C2=A0disappeared, no=
doubt a
harmonic rattling of the loose timing chain.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br=
>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">Bes=
t--Michael
Oritt</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Feb 21, 2021 at
12:17 PM Bob Spidell <<a href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.n=
et" target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0=
.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">Most mechanic=
s favor
modern 'top hat' style seals--I think they're one=
<br>
piece--unless, of course, Concours Gold requires blue
smoke from the <br>
tailpipe.<br>
<br>
By no means let crumbling rubber parts see the inside of
an engine.<br>
<br>
Bob<br>
<br>
<br>
On 2/20/2021 9:28 PM, Alan Seigrist via Healeys wrote:<br>
> All -<br>
><br>
> On my A90 I am lapping one of the exhaust valves and
this seal came <br>
> off the upper part of the valve guide.<br>
><br>
> It seems this is an original style valve seal shroud
which no one <br>
> sells.=C2=A0 I assume the best thing is to remove it and
chuck it, <br>
> correct?=C2=A0 It's already half disintegrated and I=
'm not
really worried <br>
> but would prefer to not=C2=A0 put it back on and have ol=
d
rubber parts <br>
> getting into the oil.<br>
><br>
> Am I correct to=C2=A0not put it back on?=C2=A0 No one se=
ems to
sell these.<br>
><br>
> Best,<br>
><br>
> Alan<br>
><br>
><br>
<br>
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