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Hank -
Is the spray on sealant silicone, or is it a non hardening kind like
hylomar? I'm a little concerned to use this as it may make disassembly
difficult later if I have to strip the engine down again. What is your
experience?
Thanks,
Alan
On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10:46 AM <gradea1@charter.net> wrote:
> Alan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time after
> the replacement of the head?
>
> Secondly, do you have any idea what torque they used to tighten the head,
> even if they did not go in order?
>
> A couple of us, who have been doing this for awhile, decided on about 80
> FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That is a spec for that size
> stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop manual is strictly
> adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increments.
>
> Again, I sprayed both sides of my copper gasket with a light coating of
> Permatex copper seal.
> I used a Payen gasket which was marked top/front. Yea, the good old
> days...Hank
>
> -----------------------------------------
> From: "Alan Seigrist"
> To: "Bob Spidell"
> Cc: "Healey list"
> Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM
> Subject: Re: [Healeys] A90 Head Update
>
> Hi Bob -
>
> This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you can believe
> it, but the car sat for about 10 years afterwards... I've checked both the
> head and deck with a rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do
> not need to go to the machinist. Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
> surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!
>
> I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I saved and it
> has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared to this newer gasket
> that I just removed. I discovered a few things:
>
> 1. The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and is
> thicker than the newer gasket that was put on. The old gasket that showed
> no problems is 1.8mm thick after being installed, the new gasket that
> failed is 1.5mm thick after being installed. The old gasket is very
> nicely marked as to orientation, directions, copper compression rings are
> thicker, etc., etc., Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
> circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly flat.
> 2. I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last time
> did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly working from
> the outside in.
> 3. The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in couple
> places and may have caused the head to deflect a little, possibly, but they
> don't seem to have been enough to make a difference... I have already filed
> those holes down. Micheal Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur
> the hole.
>
> It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three issues
> above. Let's see how she goes after I finish the job. Ultimately one
> thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely on mechanics that I do not know
> well to do work on my car... I end up having to redo everything.
>
> Best,
>
> Alan
>
>> On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>> > All -
>> >
>> > Got the head off. Sure enough the gasket blew between 3&4 . some
>> > evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of me standing
>> > in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make all of
>> > you jealous ... :D
>> >
>> > Cheers,
>> >
>> > Alan
>> >
>>
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hank -<div><br></div><div>Is the spray on sealant silicone=
, or is it a non hardening kind like hylomar?=C2=A0 I'm a little concer=
ned to use this as it may make disassembly difficult later if I have to str=
ip the engine down again.=C2=A0 What is your experience?</div><div><br></di=
v><div>Thanks,</div><div><br></div><div>Alan</div></div><br><div class=3D"g=
mail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Wed, Feb 3, 2021 at 10=
:46 AM <<a href=3D"mailto:gradea1@charter.net";>gradea1@charter.net</a>&g=
t; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0p=
x 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div>A=
lan-two questions: do you know if the car overheated at any time after the =
replacement of the head?<div><br></div><div>Secondly, do you have any idea =
what torque they used to tighten the head, even if they did not go in order=
?</div><div><br></div><div>A couple of us, who have been doing this for awh=
ile, decided on about 80 FT LBS. as max torque. There is no book spec. That=
is a spec for that size stud and nut. The tightening order in the workshop=
manual is strictly adhered to, and the torque is brought up in 1/3 increme=
nts.</div><div><br></div><div>Again, I sprayed=C2=A0 both sides of my coppe=
r gasket with a light coating of Permatex copper seal.</div><div>I used a P=
ayen gasket which was marked top/front. Yea, the good old days...Hank<br><b=
r><div></div><p>-----------------------------------------</p>From: "Al=
an Seigrist" <u></u><br>To: "Bob Spidell"<br>Cc: "Heale=
y list"<br>Sent: Tuesday February 2 2021 6:07:37PM<br>Subject: Re: [He=
aleys] A90 Head Update<br><br>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Bob -
<div><br></div>
<div>This gasket was put on the car only about 5K miles ago if you
can believe it, but the car sat for about 10 years
afterwards...=C2=A0 I've checked both the head and deck with a
rectifier (see pic), both are very nicely flat and do not need to
go to the machinist.=C2=A0 Both are flat to within 1/1000 on the
surface... which is less than the error on the rectifier!</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>I have the previously removed very old copper gasket which I
saved and it has no signs of gas leaking between cylinders compared
to this newer gasket that=C2=A0I just=C2=A0removed.=C2=A0 I
discovered a few things:</div>
<div>
<ol><li>The old gasket is made with better quality, softer copper, and
is thicker than the newer gasket that was put on.=C2=A0 The old
gasket that showed no problems is 1.8mm thick after being
installed, the new gasket that failed is 1.5mm thick after being
installed.=C2=A0 The old gasket is very nicely=C2=A0marked as to
orientation, directions, copper compression rings are thicker,
etc., etc.,=C2=A0 Clearly the older gasket was made to work in
circumstances where the mating surfaces weren't always perfectly
flat.</li>
<li>I highly suspect the mechanics that installed the head last
time did not torque the head in the proper sequence, quite possibly
working from the outside in.=C2=A0=C2=A0</li>
<li>The head stud mount holes on the deck were raised a bit in
couple places and may have caused the head to deflect a little,
possibly, but they don't seem to have been enough to make a
difference... I have already filed those holes down.=C2=A0 Micheal
Salter has told me to run a countersink to debur the hole.</li>
</ol><div>It's a weird one, I think possibly a combination of all three
issues above.=C2=A0 Let's see how she goes after I finish the
job.=C2=A0 Ultimately one thing I learned is I cannot anymore rely
on mechanics that I do not know well to do work on my car... I end
up having to redo everything.</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Best,</div>
</div>
<div><br></div>
<div>Alan</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-=
left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
On 2/1/2021 11:23 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:<br>
> All -<br>
><br>
> Got the head off.=C2=A0 Sure enough the gasket blew between
3&4 . =C2=A0some<br>
> evidence of gas flow between 1&2 as well. Last pic is of
me standing<br>
> in the engine compartment lifting the head off, just to make
all of<br>
> you jealous ... :D<br>
><br>
> Cheers,<br>
><br>
> Alan<br>
><br><br>
_______________________________________________<br>
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