This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============2104564051005936911==
boundary="------------36AF3B3B4505C66E7BFEBBDD"
Content-Language: en-US
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------36AF3B3B4505C66E7BFEBBDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
I've noticed the thermal issue as well.  I attribute it to the pump's
coil--essentially the pump's body and similar to a solenoid--getting
heat-soaked and its impedance increasing so that not enough current
flows through it to pull the diaphragm back.
Or, the pump just gets an attitude when it gets hot.
On 2/19/2020 8:06 AM, John Harper wrote:
> Steve
>
> I also encountered a SU electric pump no working when it became rather
> hot. Not only due to its own heat but that coming to it from the
> exhaust pipe on a very hot day. I have made a test rig on the same
> basis as the 'official' version. I left this pump running at the full
> flow rate for many hours but just as I was about to finish the test it
> stopped. It was quite hot running at full rate for so long. but when
> it cooled it ran fine.
>
> Eventually I discovered that when hot the throw over stopped working.
> This led to the discovery that the diaphragm was too 'tight'. I then
> found that later repair instruction called for more part turns before
> replacing the base. In fact two extra clamping holes.
>
> I have to assume that the setting was right on the edge and when the
> temperature rose the diaphragm became tighter. Since then the pump has
> been refitted to my BN1 and works fine.
>
> Best regards
>
> On Wed, 19 Feb 2020 at 15:31, Max Byers <sbyers@ec.rr.com
>
> Hello, Healeyphiles!
>
> As part of the preparation for the cross-country drive to Lake
> Tahoe for Open Roads 2002, I added a generic electric backup fuel
> pump (P/N E8016S, from Autozone) to my BJ8 with a switch under the
> dash that allows switching to either pump, or turning both off. I
> chose to plumb the backup pump into the system in series with the
> SU because the installation was much simpler than doing it in
> parallel. That arrangement works perfectly well. Either pump can
> pump through the inactive pump. All that was required was to cut
> the hard fuel line from the SU to the carbs, which I had already
> done anyway to install an in-line fuel filter there under the RH
> rear seat. To install the backup pump then only required removing
> the filter, running new rubber fuel hoses to complete the system,
> and reinstalling the filter.  Quick access to the pumps and the
> filter is done by using chrome screws from above into anchor nuts
> on the seat structure, rather than having to remove a wheel to
> access the seat stud nuts. I can remove the seat to have full
> access to both pumps, the filter, the hoses, and the wiring (it
> also makes checking and topping up the differential oil much
> easier). The backup pump is attached to the front wall of the
> boot behind the rear axle. It is quiet with only a slight hum,
> and I canâ??t hear it with the engine running.
>
> My usual practice is to run on the SU on an outbound leg of a
> trip, then switch to the backup for the return. Three times since
> doing the modification, I have had occasion to switch to the
> backup when the SU stumbled (in the middle of Atlanta traffic) and
> twice when it failed to start the car. These â??failuresâ?? were only
> temporary because the SU performed just fine when switched back
> later. I have since rebuilt the SU. After Conclave in Deadwood, I
> joined the group touring the northern states, and decided to split
> off from them and make a 160-mile detour alone over into Montana
> just to check that state off my list. The weather that day was
> rainy and chilly. Just as I got into Montana on an isolated
> country road, I felt the car suddenly failing to respond to the
> accelerator. As soon as I figured out what was happening, I
> switched to the SU and kept motoring. I was able to find another
> identical generic pump at Autozone in Minot, ND the next morning
> and had it installed in about 15 minutes. I used it to get back
> to North Carolina. Easy peasyâ?¦. I was so glad not to have to rely
> on having to install a spare carried in the boot, on the side of
> the road, in the rain or in the dark.
>
> Steve Byers
>
> HBJ8L/36666
>
> BJ8 Registry
>
> AHCA Delegate at Large
>
> Havelock, NCÂ USA
>
>
--------------36AF3B3B4505C66E7BFEBBDD
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
</head>
<body>
I've noticed the thermal issue as well.  I attribute it to the
pump's coil--essentially the pump's body and similar to a
solenoid--getting heat-soaked and its impedance increasing so that
not enough current flows through it to pull the diaphragm back. <br>
<br>
Or, the pump just gets an attitude when it gets hot.<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 2/19/2020 8:06 AM, John Harper
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAL1Oyxdrr5Oh7jt1L7BDDntrSgGai=YRp958TYdU=otQmTNyzA@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Steve
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I also encountered a SU electric pump no working when it
became rather hot. Not only due to its own heat but that
coming to it from the exhaust pipe on a very hot day. I have
made a test rig on the same basis as the 'official' version. I
left this pump running at the full flow rate for many hours
but just as I was about to finish the test it stopped. It was
quite hot running at full rate for so long. but when it cooled
it ran fine.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Eventually I discovered that when hot the throw over
stopped working. This led to the discovery that the
diaphragm was too 'tight'. I then found that later repair
instruction called for more part turns before replacing the
base. In fact two extra clamping holes.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have to assume that the setting was right on the edge and
when the temperature rose the diaphragm became tighter. Since
then the pump has been refitted to my BN1 and works fine.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Best regards</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Wed, 19 Feb 2020 at 15:31,
Max Byers <<a href="mailto:sbyers@ec.rr.com"
moz-do-not-send="true">sbyers@ec.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div lang="EN-US">
<div class="gmail-m_-2739924383224496939Section1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Hello,
Healeyphiles!</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">As
part of the preparation for the cross-country drive to
Lake
Tahoe for Open Roads 2002, I added a generic electric
backup fuel pump (P/N
E8016S, from Autozone) to my BJ8 with a switch under
the dash that allows
switching to either pump, or turning both off. I
chose to plumb the backup
pump into the system in series with the SU because the
installation was much
simpler than doing it in parallel. That arrangement
works perfectly well. Either
pump can pump through the inactive pump. All that was
required was to cut the
hard fuel line from the SU to the carbs, which I had
already done anyway to
install an in-line fuel filter there under the RH rear
seat. To install the
backup pump then only required removing the filter,
running new rubber fuel
hoses to complete the system, and reinstalling the
filter.  Quick access to
the pumps and the filter is done by using chrome
screws from above into anchor
nuts on the seat structure, rather than having to
remove a wheel to access the
seat stud nuts. I can remove the seat to have full
access to both pumps, the
filter, the hoses, and the wiring (it also makes
checking and topping up the
differential oil much easier). The backup pump is
attached to the front wall
of the boot behind the rear axle. It is quiet with
only a slight hum, and I
canâ??t hear it with the engine running.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">My
usual practice is to run on the SU on an outbound leg
of a
trip, then switch to the backup for the return. Three
times since doing the
modification, I have had occasion to switch to the
backup when the SU stumbled (in
the middle of Atlanta traffic) and twice when it
failed to start the car.Â
These â??failuresâ?? were only temporary because the SU
performed just fine when
switched back later. I have since rebuilt the SU.Â
After Conclave in Deadwood,
I joined the group touring the northern states, and
decided to split off from
them and make a 160-mile detour alone over into
Montana just to check that
state off my list. The weather that day was rainy and
chilly. Just as I got
into Montana on an isolated country road, I felt the
car suddenly failing to
respond to the accelerator. As soon as I figured out
what was happening, I switched
to the SU and kept motoring. I was able to find
another identical generic pump
at Autozone in Minot, ND the next morning and had it
installed in about 15
minutes. I used it to get back to North Carolina.Â
Easy peasyâ?¦. I was so glad
not to have to rely on having to install a spare
carried in the boot, on the
side of the road, in the rain or in the dark.</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Steve
Byers</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">HBJ8L/36666</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">BJ8
Registry</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">AHCA
Delegate at Large</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Havelock,
NCÂ USA</span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11pt;font-family:Calibri,sans-serif;color:rgb(31,73,125)">Â </span></p>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
</body>
</html>
--------------36AF3B3B4505C66E7BFEBBDD--
--===============2104564051005936911==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
--===============2104564051005936911==--
|