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I had a switch from Watsons on my third brake light setup and kept the =
pressure switch as well. You can see wiring, etc. in the My =
Modifications Section in my site
=20
John Sims
<http://www.healey6.com> www.healey6.com
Aberdeen, NJ
=20
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of BJ8Healeys
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 8:36 AM
To: 'Healeys' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
=20
I installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several =
years ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement =
pressure switches. My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks =
(www.watsons-streetworks.com <http://www.watsons-streetworks.com> ). =
Their explanation of the problem with pressure switches is that the =
contacts do not "wipe" over each other during switch operation and =
therefore do not clean themselves of oxidation that causes them to fail. =
Sounded good to me.=20
So far, the mechanical switch has operated perfectly for 13 years and =
40,000 miles. =20
=20
Steve Byers
HBJ8L/36666
BJ8 Registry
AHCA Delegate at Large
Havelock, NC =20
=20
=20
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of =
Michael Oritt
Sent: Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM
To: Bob Spidell
Cc: Healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
=20
Bob--
=20
That is how the switches eventually fail--they work when one stands on =
the brakes but the contacts do not close under normaL, moderate =
pressure. =20
=20
Best--Michael IOritt
=20
On Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net =
Roger Moment did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey=20
Magazine about using a mechanical/electrical switch. I bought the=20
switch but haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would=20
do the trick. My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit=20
the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the lights. =
I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights weren't working--I put=20
LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know they're visible--but I think it's =
partly because I coast and/or engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into =
stop signs/lights and slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.
Guess I'll put a new, stock switch in and see if that helps.
Bob
On 7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:
> Yes these hydraulic switches are notoriously problematic.
> I am of the opinion that the contacts get pitted and so this gives the =
erratic or non closing of the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over =
the years on other Brit cars.
> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.
> However this does not help with setting sensitivity.
> I have fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the =
operating point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is =
wired in parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd =
switch is just a back up.
> Works just fine.
> rg
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> Sent: Sat, 27 Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)
> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light Switch
>
> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light switch from Ron =
Francis
> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation from someone here). Today I
> tried to install it and it has the wrong threads, which I only =
realized
> after fabbing a couple leads for it. So my question is, does anybody
> make a higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually
> fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but would
> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that doesn't take =
a
> quarter-pedal of motion to activate.
>
> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current switch appear to be
> machine, whereas the RFR switch was 1/8" pipe; anyone know what the
> correct size of the current switch is (I had to put it back in to stop
> the leak).
>
> TIA,
>
> Bob
>
>
>
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys =
http://autox.team.net/archive
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmail.com =
<http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michael.oritt@gmailcom>=20
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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial Black",sans-serif'>I had a switch from =
Watsons on my third brake light setup and kept the pressure switch as =
well. You can see wiring, etc. in the My Modifications Section in my =
site<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-family:"Arial =
Black",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial =
Black",sans-serif'>John Sims<o:p></o:p></span></b></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial =
Black",sans-serif'><a href=3D"http://www.healey6.com";><span =
style=3D'color:#0563C1'>www.healey6.com</span></a><o:p></o:p></span></b><=
/p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial =
Black",sans-serif'>Aberdeen, NJ<o:p></o:p></span></b></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><b><span style=3D'font-family:"Arial =
Black",sans-serif'><o:p> </o:p></span></b></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'>From:</span><=
/b><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif'> =
Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of =
</b>BJ8Healeys<br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, July 29, 2019 8:36 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> 'Healeys' =
<healeys@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Brake =
Light Switch<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#002060'>I =
installed an adjustable mechanical brake switch in my BJ8 several years =
ago after becoming frustrated with the short life of replacement =
pressure switches. My switch came from Watson's StreetWorks (<a =
href=3D"http://www.watsons-streetworks.com";>www.watsons-streetworks.com</=
a>). Their explanation of the problem with pressure switches is =
that the contacts do not "wipe" over each other during switch =
operation and therefore do not clean themselves of oxidation that causes =
them to fail. Sounded good to me. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:#002060'>So far, the mechanical switch has operated =
perfectly for 13 years and 40,000 miles. <o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:#002060'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic =
Sans MS";color:#002060'>Steve Byers</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#002060'=
><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>HBJ8L/36666</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#002060'=
><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans MS";color:#002060'>BJ8 =
Registry</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#002060'=
><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>AHCA Delegate at Large</span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#002060'=
><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'>Havelock, NC </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#002060'=
><o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri",sans-serif;color:#002060'=
><o:p> </o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Comic Sans =
MS";color:#002060'><o:p> </o:p></span></p><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'>From:</span></=
b><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma",sans-serif'> =
Healeys [<a =
href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:healeys-bounces@aut=
ox.team.net</a>] <b>On Behalf Of </b>Michael Oritt<br><b>Sent:</b> =
Monday, July 29, 2019 12:12 AM<br><b>To:</b> Bob Spidell<br><b>Cc:</b> =
Healeys<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] Brake Light =
Switch<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Bob--<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>That is how the switches =
eventually fail--they work when one stands on the brakes but the =
contacts do not close under normaL, moderate =
pressure. <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:#3333FF'><o:p> </o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'color:#3333FF'>Best--Michael =
IOritt<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal>On =
Sun, Jul 28, 2019 at 11:02 PM Bob Spidell <<a =
href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";>bspidell@comcast.net</a>> =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:5=
.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Roger Moment =
did an article a couple months ago in Austin-Healey <br>Magazine about =
using a mechanical/electrical switch. I bought the <br>switch but =
haven't installed it; was really hoping the RFR switch would <br>do the =
trick. My current switch (heh) was working, I just had to hit =
<br>the pedal harder than I though I should have to to activate the =
lights. <br>I've had other motorists tell me my brake lights =
weren't working--I put <br>LEDs in a couple years ago, and I know =
they're visible--but I think it's <br>partly because I coast and/or =
engine brake instead of jackrabbiting into <br>stop signs/lights and =
slamming on the brakes like so many drivers do.<br><br>Guess I'll put a =
new, stock switch in and see if that helps.<br><br>Bob<br><br>On =
7/28/2019 11:13 AM, Roger Grace wrote:<br>> Yes these hydraulic =
switches are notoriously problematic.<br>> I am of the opinion that =
the contacts get pitted and so this gives the erratic or non closing of =
the circuit. Have replaced at least 10 over the years on other Brit =
cars.<br>> The solution is to fit a relay for this issue.<br>> =
However this does not help with setting sensitivity.<br>> I have =
fitted a mechanicat switch on the brake pedal shaft and the operating =
point is easily set - as sensitive as you want. This switch is wired in =
parallel with the hyd. one and drives a relay. So the hyd switch is just =
a back up.<br>> Works just fine.<br>> rg<br>><br>><br>> =
----- Original Message -----<br>> From: Bob Spidell <<a =
href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; =
target=3D"_blank">bspidell@comcast.net</a>><br>> To: Healeys =
<<a href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"; =
target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a>><br>> Sent: Sat, 27 =
Jul 2019 18:42:49 -0600 (MDT)<br>> Subject: [Healeys] Brake Light =
Switch<br>><br>> A while ago, I bought a 'sensitive' brake light =
switch from Ron Francis<br>> Racing (IIRC, based on a recommendation =
from someone here). Today I<br>> tried to install it and it has =
the wrong threads, which I only realized<br>> after fabbing a couple =
leads for it. So my question is, does anybody<br>> make a =
higher-quality--i.e. more sensitive--switch that will actually<br>> =
fit a Healey's brake lines? I've got a mechanical switch, but =
would<br>> prefer to stay with the hydraulic if I can find one that =
doesn't take a<br>> quarter-pedal of motion to =
activate.<br>><br>> Also, the threads on my (now broken) current =
switch appear to be<br>> machine, whereas the RFR switch was =
1/8" pipe; anyone know what the<br>> correct size of the current =
switch is (I had to put it back in to stop<br>> the =
leak).<br>><br>> TIA,<br>><br>> =
Bob<br>><br>><br>><br>__________________________________________=
_____<br>Support Team.Net <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; =
target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>Suggested =
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